Sheldon, Leonard, Howard, Raj, and Natasha: Big Bang Theory meets Belarus

I have spent enough time in Eastern Europe and in China to get used to blatant violations of copyright law (though not to believe it’s right). In fact, the first time I watched The Big Bang Theory, a show that I really enjoy, it was on a pirated DVD in Beijing; it belonged to a friend who bought the DVDs for a fraction of a cost in the U.S. I liked it, and have been watching it since. (Now that I’m back in the U.S., there are more legitimate means.)

However, I recently I saw something very absurd when stalking its leads actors on Wikipedia: this article from April 22 claimed there was a Belarusian clone of The Big Bang Theory. This is strange for a few reasons. First, a popular channel on Russian TV (НТВ) airs the (legally purchased, I hope) dubbed version. Belarusians usually get that channel. Plus, the Russian translation of The Big Bang Theory is all over the Russian internet, as is every other remotely interesting show or a movie. So who would ever make a clone, I thought. Well, Belarus would. And not just anyone in Belarus, but the state-owned TV station.

Chuck Lorre, the show’s producer, drew attention to the situation in one of his famous vanity cards at the end of the show:

CHUCK LORRE PRODUCTIONS, #277
Belarus is a small, land-locked country next door to Russia, Ukraine, Latvia, Lithuania and Poland. According to Wikipedia, one of its major exports is cattle by-products. Which begs the question, what horrible shape are the cattle in, if all they’re good for is felt hats and wallpaper paste? But Belarus does have a bustling TV production industry. One of their most recent hits is a sitcom about four nerdy scientists who live next door to a beautiful blonde waitress. The characters are named Sheldon, Leo, Hovard, Raj and Natasha, and the show is entitled, The Theorists. Each episode begins with a rapid-fire montage of images which takes us from the dawn of time to the present moment. Keeping with that theme, the montage is scored with what is probably the worst piece of recorded pop music since the dawn of time. And finally, each episode appears to be a Russian translation of a Big Bang Theory episode. When we brought this to the attention of the Warner Brothers legal department, we were told that it’s next to impossible to sue for copyright infringement in Belarus because the TV production company that is ripping us off is owned and operated by the government of Belarus. Having no other recourse, I’m hoping that this vanity card will be read by the fine folks making The Theorists, and, wracked with guilt, they break down and send us some felt hats. The Kyrgyzstan version of Dharma & Greg already sent me some wallpaper paste.

The company is indeed government-owned. It’s also one of the ‘national TV channels’ (read: everything it does s controlled by the Belorussian government). It’s called СТВ in Russian, and it stand for Capital Television (as in Television of the Country’s Capital). And it does not deny producing the TV series in question; au contraire, it proudly shows it off on the their website. It’s called Теоретики (The Theorists). Check out the print-screen, dear Russian-speakers (for others, see bref recap below).

Actually, this does not need a re-cap. It just explains it’s a sitcom, introduces the lead actors (have no idea who they are, but I am out of the loop big time). The Big Bang Theory is not mentioned anywhere.

So I went and watched the show. It was cancelled after four episodes, and that’s the greatest favor the Belorussian TV has ever done to the humankind. Copyright infringement aside, it is horrible, awful, ghastly, atrocious, hideous, and [insert any other synonym].

Let’s start with the characters’ names. Leo, Sheldon, Raj, Howard, and Natasha. Ok, Leo could be a short form of a relatively common Russian name Leonid, but Raj, Howard, and Sheldon? And seriously, Natasha? This name makes me think this show would have been better it it were about American nerdy guys who got a mail-order Russian bride. Check her out (to make things easier, I am using a print screen from a web site, but that really is the Natasha from the series):

Let’s move to the opening credits now. In The Big Bang Theory, it’s a cool song by the Barenaked Ladies. The Theorists feature the song the only use whereof is at Yale’s Eastern European-themed parties to illustrate how ridiculous Eastern European music could be (and that’s the kind of song you could want played way after everyone has begun consuming alcohol).

For Russian speakers, here is a brief excerpt from episode 1:

Even if you don’t understand the language, you might still enjoy ridiculous background music and characters’ outfits that imitate those from The Big Bang Theory. If you want more, go to YouTube and search for ‘Теоретики.’ Do keep anti-nausea medications by your side though.

This website cites one of the Belorussian channel’s executives:

“То, что наш телеканал начал снимать такой сериал, говорит о том, что мы развиваемся, мы твердо стоим на ногах. Несмотря на то, что год был трудным, нам удалось его успешно завершить, в том числе и благодаря налоговым преференциям государства”

Here is my translation:

The fact that out channel has begun making such a series indicates that we are developing well. Even though this year has been very difficult, we managed to end it well, owing to, among others, the state’s tax credits.

So THAT is what Belarus’ fiscal policy is: provide tax credits to companies that make unacknowledged rip-offs of American TV series.

Ad by the way, this is not just some rip-off; it’s СТВ’s inaugural TV series. They are planning to make more. The channel’s official website:

Главным подарком зрителям к Новому году станет премьера 4-серийного ситкома «Теоретики», с которого телеканал намерен начать собственное кинопроизводство.

My translation:

Our main New Year’s gift to [our] audience will be launch of the 4-episode sitcom ‘The Theorists,’ with which the channel is intending to begin its own film-making.

I was angry at first. But now I just feel bad for the country whose official channel gifts its audience a rip-off of an American sitcom for New Years.

My China in Numbers

As my summer program is over, and my semester at Beijing University is about to start, I thought it was time to sum some things up.

0: number of times I felt unsafe in Beijing. That’s a record among all my travels: only Hong Kong felt safer to me;

0: number of time I heard ‘economic crisis’ outside the classroom; about 1,000,000 — number of times I heard it in the U.S. or Russia every day;

0.25: cost of one lamb kebab, in USD;

0.6-0.7: cost of a large cup of bubble tea, in USD;

0.7: average cost of a fake DVD, in USD;

1: emergency root canal = 1 cancelled trip to Inner Mongolia;

1: big culture shock so far (see this post);

1.1: average cost of a very filling dinner for one, in USD (that’s just me, of course, and I don’t eat much meat, which tends to be more expensive, but it’s still very illustrative;

2: years I have left at Yale (of which one semester will be spent in Beijing);

3: number of different H&M’s I have gone to one fine day in Beijing (purely for comparison purposes, of course)

4: months I have left in China (which makes me very happy);

6: average number of students in one room at a college dorm in China (1 or 2 at Yale; 2 at Yale-PKU Joint Undegraduate Program, thankfully);

7-14: allowance, per day of rehearsal, that the government pays to the students preparing for the big parade to be held on the National Day (Oct. 1), in USD — the first big rehearsal was held already: check this story.

10: (very happy) weeks I’ve spent in Beijing so far;

35cm (1.1 foot): maximum allowed height for dogs in Beijing (dogs who happen to outgrow it are often put to sleep or simply abandoned);

60: number of years China will be turning on Oct. 1; 1,000,000: number of crazy security measures the government in undertaking;

100: approximate number of cups of bubble tea I consumed in China so far;

570: monthly salary of a teacher at my summer program, in USD (and that’s apparently pretty good by local standards);

800: the approximate number of new Chinese words I learned this summer;

200,000: participants in aforementioned National Day parade;

Over 17 million: Beijing’s population (for comparison, NYC’s population is under 9 million; Moscow’s is estimated to be 12 million)

Infinite: reasons to come to China

Buying Fake in China

I lost a make-up brush while moving. It was a generic cheap one I used with my highlighter. I got it as a gift in a set many years ago, and it was most likely made in China. Since I was in China, I thought it would be easy to find a replacement.
I don’t exactly put much shop in shopping for make-up brushes. In Russia, I would have gone to some make-up stores and got one; they are ubiquitous, really. In the US, I would have probably ordered one online, since I don’t have time to go shopping, and New Haven doesn’t have that many stores anyway. Either way, I would have gotten a brush that was made in China an forgotten about it until I lost it and had to buy a new one.
But it’s not that simple in China.
Almost every country has a signature shopping experience for its visitors. Tourists emerge from Thailand wrapped in sarongs and wearing Thai pants; it’s vodka and nesting dolls in Russia; lederhosen and teddy bears in Germany. In China, it’s fake stuff.
I grew up being told that pirated music and software and counterfeit goods are bad. So I stay away from fake Louis Vuitton and get my music off iTunes. That’s reasonably easy to do living in the states where pursuing a fake LV bag actually requires some effort  (I came across an actual guide of how to go about getting one in NYC (http://www.nytix.com/NewYorkCity/articles/handbags.html) and my set-up iTunes account allows me to buy music with one click and my job lets me buy it without worrying about the cost.
But the problem with shopping in China is that it’s often fake or nothing.
So back to my make-up brush story. I went to a Sephora looking for one, but they did not have the kind I wanted (wrong size and shape; yes, I am picky about that). Other chains like Watsons didn’t have one either. At that point, it got ridiculous to be spending so much time to be looking for one small make-up tool, so I decided to go to some local store. I could see locals wearing brush, so proper brushes must exist in China!
At a large department store, there was an entire floor dedicated to make-up and beauty-related goods. And then I spotted what I wanted. It was perfect –small, light, convenient, and sized just right. But it had huge MAC logo on it — clearly and obviously fake. MAC doesn’t make the same kind of brush; MAC’s brushes are priced at 30+USD; that one was 2.5USD. If it had ‘Chanel’ or even ‘Coca-Cola’ on it, I would have wanted it anyway.
And so I bought it. And I somehow feel guilty about it. All those year of seeing ads against counterfeit goods and reading about how buying counterfeit destroys big companies have instilled guilt in me (good news for those PR agencies designing them, I guess). I like MAC, and have no intention of hurting their business: they don’t test on animals and even run a program that donates money to AIDS-related causes. I even volunteered for them several years ago. But I did not buy it for the logo — I would have wanted it anyway. See, when you buy a fake Coach bag, you usually do it for that design, right? In this case, I did not care about the logo; an it’s not like I would have bought a real one from MAC, because I don’t like their brushes. So they did not lose profit.
There are legal and economical implications of buying fake, but I only want to talk about the ethical ones this time.
Now, can you say it was unethical of me to buy that brush?
On the one hand, I did not have many alternatives. I seriously could not fin anything else anywhere. I could have bought one from eBay and had it shipped here, which would have wasted money and damaged the environment; I could have asked a friend to bring it over from the US, which is ridiculous, really.
On the other hand, I could have avoided buying one altogether and lived without using that particular make-up product (let’s face it, it’s not essential to my well-being). But I guess I am pretty spoiled as a consumer, because I am more or less used to instant gratification — you want the brush, you take out your debit card and buy it, whether on- or offline. And I could get anything else anywhere. And this consumer mentality is cultivated by the same multinational companies that complain about losing profit to fake goods. In MAC’s case, it’s Estee Lauder, who also owns the company that made the highlighter I wanted the brush for. I would have not bought the actual brush from MAC, since none is available, so they did not lose any profit. Since I will be using the brush to put on the make-up and will run out by the time I have to go back, I will buy more of the product, which will end up bringing Estee Lauder more money. So we all win — Estee Lauder will get better profit, I will have positive consumer experience, and some Chinese factory workers will not lose their jobs (provided they work at a regular factory and not a sweatshop).
And I assuage my guilt by readily admitting it’s fake when asked — this makes me feel like I did not by it because of the three letters on its handle.
The story of my make-up brush is not that exciting, really. But that one little brush represent an entire industry of fake goods — which is estimated to take up over 7% of all world trade! All these fake brushes  so widely represented on eBay that there are even guides on how to spot them (
http://reviews.ebay.com/MAC-BRUSHES-Guide-to-Fake-vs-Authentic-MAC-brushes_W0QQugidZ10000000002525878
(http://proquest.umi.com/pqdlink?Ver=1&Exp=08-24-2014&FMT=7&DID=1095869571&RQT=309&cfc=1)
I will write about legal and economic issues accompanying counterfeit goods later, since I am still researching it. But you know something is wrong with a country where the only mundane household item of a decent quality you can find is a fake.

I lost a make-up brush while moving. It was a generic cheap one I used with my highlighter: I got it as a gift in a set many years ago, and it was most likely made in China. Since I was in China, I thought it would be easy to find a replacement.

I don’t exactly put much effort in shopping for make-up brushes. In Russia, I would have gone to some make-up stores and got one; they are ubiquitous, really. In the US, I would have probably ordered one online, since I don’t have time to go shopping, and New Haven doesn’t have that many stores anyway. Either way, I would have gotten a brush that was made in China and forgotten about it until I lost it and had to buy a new one.

But it’s not that simple in China.

Almost every country has a signature shopping experience for its visitors. Tourists emerge from Thailand wrapped in sarongs and wearing Thai pants; it’s vodka and nesting dolls in Russia; lederhosen and teddy bears in Germany. In China, it’s fake stuff.

I grew up being told that pirated music and software and counterfeit goods are bad. So I stay away from fake Louis Vuitton and get my music off iTunes. That’s reasonably easy to do living in the states where pursuing a fake LV bag actually requires some effort  (I came across an actual guide on how to go about getting one in NYC!) and my iTunes account allows me to buy music with one click and the fact I have a  job lets me buy it without worrying about the small cost.

But the problem with shopping in China is that it’s often fake or nothing.

So back to my make-up brush story. I went to a Sephora looking for one, but they did not have the kind I wanted (wrong size and shape; yes, I am picky about that). Other chains like Watsons didn’t have one either. At that point, it got ridiculous to be spending so much time to be looking for one small make-up tool, so I decided to go to some local store. I could see locals wearing blush, so proper brushes must exist in China!

At a large department store, there was an entire floor dedicated to make-up and beauty-related goods. And then I spotted what I wanted. It was perfect –small, light, convenient, and sized just right. But it had huge MAC logo on it — clearly and obviously fake. MAC doesn’t make the same kind of brush; MAC’s brushes are priced at 30+USD; that one was 2.5USD. If it had ‘Chanel’ or even ‘Coca-Cola’ on it, I would have wanted it anyway.

And so I bought it. But I feel guilty about it. All those year of seeing ads against counterfeit goods and reading about how buying counterfeit destroys big companies have instilled guilt in me (good news for those PR agencies designing them, I guess). I like MAC, and have no intention of hurting their business: they don’t test on animals and even run a program that donates money to AIDS-related causes. I even volunteered for them several years ago. But I did not buy it for the logo — I would have wanted it anyway. See, when you buy a fake Coach bag, you usually do it for that design, right? In this case, I did not care about the logo; an it’s not like I would have bought a real one from MAC, because I don’t like their brushes. So they did not lose any profits.

There are legal and economic implications of buying fake, but I only want to talk about the ethical ones this time.

Now, can you say it was unethical of me to buy that brush?

On the one hand, I did not have many alternatives. I seriously could not find anything else anywhere. I could have bought one from eBay and had it shipped here, which would have wasted money and damaged the environment; I could have asked a friend to bring it over from the US, which is ridiculous, really.

On the other hand, I could have avoided buying one altogether and lived without using that particular make-up product (let’s face it, it’s not essential to my well-being). But I guess I am pretty spoiled as a consumer, because I am more or less used to instant gratification — you want the brush, you take out your debit card and buy it, whether on- or offline. This consumer mentality is cultivated by the same multinational companies that complain about losing profit to fake goods; in MAC’s case, it’s Estee Lauder, who also owns the company that made the highlighter I wanted the brush for. I would have not bought the actual brush from MAC, since none is available, so they did not lose any profit. Since I will be using the brush to put on the make-up and will run out by the time I have to go back, I will buy more of the product, which will end up bringing Estee Lauder more money. So we all win — Estee Lauder will get better profit, I will have positive consumer experience, and some Chinese factory workers will not lose their jobs (provided they work at a regular factory and not a sweatshop).

And I assuage my guilt by readily admitting it’s fake when asked — this makes me feel like I did not by it because of the three letters on its handle.

The story of my make-up brush is not that exciting, really. But that one little brush represent an entire industry of fake goods — which is estimated to take up over 7% of all world trade! All these fake brushes  are now so widely represented on eBay that there are even guides on how to spot them.

I will write about legal and economic issues accompanying counterfeit goods later, since I am still researching it. But you know something is wrong with a country where the only mundane household item of a decent quality you can find is a fake.

China, Culture Shock, and Showering Together

I used to think I was worldly, well-traveled, and tolerant. After many years of traveling and studying abroad, I enjoyed dispensing advice on how to adjust to new cultures, where to go, and what to pack (see previous post). I even claimed I did not get culture shock anymore, since I was so used to trotting the globe and being all cosmopolitan.
Suffice to say I was punished for my arrogance a week ago.
I spent that day studying for my finals, and decided to take a shower before going to sleep.
Our shower stalls are divided by matted glass walls — they are not exactly diaphanous, but not opaque, either, and you can see vague outlines of the body of the person showering next to you.
As I was lathering, rinsing, and repeating, I detected two girls’ voices close to me; they were chatting in Chinese too fluent to be that of any of my fellow students (no offense), so I figured they were our Chinese roommates.
Since I could hear water running in the stall next to mine, without thinking, my mind registered it as one of the girls was showering, and the other was standing outside talking to her.
But when I looked up, I realized there were two body contours in that stall.
So at first I though they were making out, and delicately turned away.
(Going to a very liberal international boarding school and then living at a dorm at a fairly liberal college alters your expectations of dorm showers).
And then I realized they were chatting in a regular, friendly manner — no heavy breezing of flirtatious intonations. I carefully glazed up — and yes, I could see two body contours also lathering, rinsing, and repeating, each in their part of the shower stall. The stall was pretty small, so they were pretty close to each other.
I looked the other way, and saw that the stall on the other side of mine was available, so they were showering together voluntarily, not because there was no other place to shower.
And that’s just blew my mind.
I walked out of the shower having forgotten to finish rinsing my hair, and went to my room. I must have looked pretty confused, since my Chinese roommate asked me what was wrong. Having concentrated enough to speak Chinese, I asked her:
-In China, do girls shower together?
-Yeah.
-And that’s, um, common?
-Yeah. I don’t really like it though, but many of my friends do.
-Do guys do that, too?
-Some do, yeah.
I still don’t know why it shocked me so much.
It the two girls were in fact making out, I would have not cared at all. I am very liberal, and I certainly don’t care what people do in the showers in their spare time. I don’t exactly have a puritan approach to nudity, either. I have been happy to go to nude beaches with friends in Germany, and I have been to plenty of public saunas/lockerrooms/etc. I go to a local gym where women feel free to stroll around naked while changing in the locker room, and that does not bother me much.
Unless it was a complete shower emergency, it would just never occur to me to shower with a friend. In some dorms in China, hot water is turned off at a certain time. So, say, if I got back from the gym with a friend, and there was just one shower stall, and we had ten minutes, I would not mind sharing a stall — although I’d probably wear bikini or underwear.
But in my opinion, showering with friends just does not cut it as a social activity.
The stall is small, there is one shower, which means you have to take turns. Our dorm stalls here are larger than those at Yale, but not gigantic, either.
I have never been known to take long showers, so showering time is not exactly sacred to me, either. In fact, if I get back to my dorm from shopping with girlfriends, and we decide to take a shower and then go eat out, I will be waiting for them long after I am done showering and changing. There is not much to do in there, even with letting that conditioner soak in and scrubbing my body raw, my showers are never longer than 10 minutes.
I do think that showers are relaxing, but I just don’t get what one is supposed to do there to spend around 20 minutes or more — I always guessed people had some sort of secret shower behavior. Standing still while the hot water is flowing over you and pretending they are in the Caribbean, doing their secret dance routine, singing etc. That would make people wish for some privacy in a shower, right?
Even though I don’t seem to have any of that secret showering behavior, I still don’t understand why shower with friends. And no, I am not judgmental or critical, I just honestly don’t see the point.
Going to a spa together, getting hair done together, painting each other’s toenails even — all of these fit in my understanding of social interactions with females (and males, too, sometimes). Women often bond over some sort of grooming rituals, and what’s a better foundation of friendship then getting pedicures and discussing the latest trends in nailpolish?
I don’t think I have ever heard anyone else comment on this topic — I am guessing it might because most foreigners in China don’t come across showering Chinese that often.
Or maybe no one else finds it strange?

I used to think I was worldly, well-traveled, and tolerant. After many years of traveling and studying abroad, I enjoyed dispensing advice on how to adjust to new cultures, where to go, and what to pack (see previous post). I even claimed I did not get culture shock anymore, since I was so used to trotting the globe and being all cosmopolitan.

Suffice to say I was punished for my arrogance a week ago.

I spent that day studying for my finals, and decided to take a shower before going to sleep.

Our shower stalls are divided by matte glass walls — they are not exactly diaphanous, but not opaque, either, and you can see vague outlines of the body of the person showering next to you.

As I was lathering, rinsing, and repeating, I detected two girls’ voices close to me; they were chatting in Chinese too fluent to be that of any of my fellow students (no offense), so I figured they were our Chinese roommates.

Since I could hear water running in the stall next to mine, without thinking, my mind registered it as one of the girls was showering, and the other was standing outside talking to her.

But when I looked up, I realized there were two body contours in that stall.

So at first I though they were making out, and delicately turned away.

(Going to a very liberal international boarding school and then living at a dorm at a fairly liberal college alters your expectations of dorm showers).

And then I realized they were chatting in a regular, friendly manner — no heavy breathing or flirtatious intonations. I carefully gazed up — and yes, I could see two body contours also lathering, rinsing, and repeating, each in their part of the shower stall. The stall was pretty small, so they were pretty close to each other.

I looked the other way, and saw that the stall on the other side of mine was available, so they were showering together voluntarily, not because there was no other place to shower.

And that just blew my mind.

I walked out of the shower having forgotten to finish rinsing my hair, and went to my room. I must have looked pretty confused, since my Chinese roommate asked me what was wrong. Having concentrated enough to speak Chinese, I asked her:

-In China, do girls shower together?

-Yeah.

-And that’s, um, common?

-Yeah. I don’t really like it though, but many of my friends do.

-Do guys do that, too?

-Some do, yeah.

I still don’t know why it shocked me so much.

If the two girls were in fact making out, I would have not cared at all. I certainly don’t care what people do in the showers in their spare time. I don’t exactly have a crazy puritan approach to nudity, either: I have been to plenty of public saunas/lockerrooms/etc; I go to a local gym in Beijing where women feel free to stroll around naked while changing in the locker room, and that does not bother me much.

Unless it was a complete shower emergency, it would just never occur to me to shower with a friend. In some dorms in China, hot water is turned off at a certain time. So, say, if I got back from the gym with a friend, and there was just one shower stall, and we had ten minutes, I would not mind sharing a stall — although I’d probably wear bikini or underwear.

But in my opinion, showering with friends just does not cut it as a social activity.

The stall is small, there is one shower, which means you have to take turns. Our dorm stalls here are larger than those at Yale, but not gigantic, either.

I have never been known to take long showers, so showering time is not exactly sacred to me, either. In fact, if I get back to my dorm from shopping with girlfriends, and we decide to take a shower and then go eat out, I will be waiting for them long after I am done showering and changing. There is not much to do in there: even with letting that conditioner soak in and scrubbing my body raw, my showers are never longer than 10 minutes.

I do think that showers are relaxing, but I just don’t get what one is supposed to do there to spend around 20 minutes or more — I always guessed people had some sort of secret shower behavior. Standing still while the hot water is flowing over you and pretending they are in the Caribbean, doing their secret dance routine, singing, etc. That would make people wish for some privacy in a shower, right?

Even though I don’t seem to have any of that secret showering behavior, I still don’t understand why one would shower with friends. And no, I am not judgmental or critical, I just honestly don’t see the point.

Going to a spa together, getting hair done together, painting each other’s toenails even — all of these fit in my understanding of social interactions with females (and males, too, sometimes). Women often bond over some sort of grooming rituals, and what’s a better foundation of friendship then getting pedicures and discussing the latest trends in nailpolish?

I don’t think I have ever heard anyone else comment on this topic — I am guessing it might be because most foreigners in China don’t come across showering Chinese that often.

Or maybe no one else finds it strange?

Don’t Forget Your Camera — What to Pack for Study Abroad (including China)

As the summer is drawing to a close, I have been getting emails from friends going to study abroad (junior year abroad, anyone?) asking me for packing tips. All I have been doing for the past seven years is studying abroad, so I thought I’d share some ideas — hope this will come in handy.
So let’s presume you are packing for at least one semester — be it summer, fall, or spring. You will be taking classes, but most likely will end up going on weekend daytrips/sightseeing/shopping/clubbing etc.
I assume that bringing a toothbrush/deodorant/sunscreen/jeans is not an issue — most people don’t forget to pack that anyway, and if you do, most airports will help you replenish your supply. I don’t think I need to stress getting medical insurance and bringing all the necessary information with you — most study abroad programs have made it into a requirement anyway.
Most orientation packets provide some sort of packing lists, but I have never seen one that was actually useful. Yours might still have important country-specific information — e.g., standards of modesty, especially for women (in the usual chauvinistic practices, it’s usually women who have to adjust their wardrobe most of the time).
I keep a packing list saved on my laptop — everything that I could possibly want to pack, from eyedrops to shoe cream. I use it every time I go somewhere. The problem, of course, is starting packing early enough so that you have time to buy said shoe cream and weight your luggage to make sure you are not over your luggage allowance. This list can be useful if your luggage gets lost or stolen and you need to file a claim with aan airline/insurance company. They will want an itemized list, and you’d be surprised that you might not actually remember what you packedd. (For those more organized, take pictures of the contents of your suitcase).
Of course, people have different needs — I have seen angry discussions on the Internet about whether to bring a micro fleece towel or a terry one (buy locally would be my advice).
Clothes:
Talking about what to bring clothing-wise is prone to most criticism, since everyone’s needs are very different. I for one pack more high-heels than some women probably wear in their lifetime; and I end up wearing flats 90% of the time, because, let’s face it, streets in Beijing are not heels-friendly. A friend never travels without at least a dozen clutch bags; she ends up making a use of one or two that match her wardrobe when going out, but hey, they make her happy (and she swears she used all of them while studying in Paris). But here are some observations.
No matter where you are, you are likely to spend more time going out than at home (that would especially apply to the Americans who can’t even enter a proper nightclub until they are 21). That does not necessarily include going to sleazy night clubs in Southeast Asia; sometimes it’s just difficult to resist the allure of an expat restaurant or a relaxed Friday night out and about. Anyway, such occasions usually warrant for fancier clothing — while it might seem a sensible option for girls to bring just one going out dress if you are only planning on studying, bring two or three. You don’t want to realize you are wearing the same dress every weekend — and a dash to the stores to buy something worthy of going out can be more expensive than planned.
Other than that, it’s fun to go shopping in a new place, and cheap clothing is available at many, many locations worldwide. But if you are going to Asia and you are not tiny (think not taller than 5’4” and above a size 2 for women), you might have a problem buying pants/jeans at the stores where locals shop. International brands stock all sorts of sizes, but their prices are compared to those in the West — which is not fun considering that local clothing is a fraction of that price. Also, some international brands may switch their sizing system; there is a European brand that I buy in Europe sometimes; I am always a Small — but in Asia, that magically transforms into a Large (“Ma’am, would you like to try this garment in an Extra-Large? That might be more appropriate”).  H&M uses their usual sizing, so that doesn’t bruise my ego as much, but it rarely stocks anything above an American 10 (I am their 2 or a 4, and they always have it, but it seems like most of the time this is the largest size offered).
Also, women may have problems buying shoes in Asia that are above a size 8 (I am an 8.5 and I had a really tough time buying shoes in Hong Kong; many international brands in mainland China carry my size, but it looks like it doesn’t get much bigger than that).
Most Asian programs’ orientation packets choose to ignore the issue of women’s underwear — any woman larger than a B cup might have issues buying bras in Asia (and it will be marked as a C or even a D. Seriously. Of course, you are supposed to bring your own, but don’t count on buying that convertible bra for that cute dress locally — you may have to end up never wearing the dress. Tights also fall in that category.
If you are particularly tall or/and full-figured, you might not have a very easy time finding things to wear in some parts of Eastern Europe and Africa (from what I hear, some parts of Latin American also fit in that category).
If you are going to Eastern Europe, you may have problem buying comfortable shoes period — most of the ones commonly sold are heels. At least that’s what happens to me all the time.
As for formal/professional clothes, it’s good to have at least one outfit in case you find a possible internship location/a local TV station decides to interview you/a local politician invites you over etc. You just never know what occasion may warrant an outfit more formal than what you wear to class. So pack it.
Make-up/skin care:
I friend in Beijing was recently looking to buy tinted foundation, and all she could track down was the kind with whitening ingredients in it — quite the opposite of her goal. If you are going to Asia, beware — most cremes, moisturizers, and facewashes come with whitening qualities. I used to think it was all a marketing ploy, until I ran out of my moisturizer once in Hong Kong. All I could find that had a familiar brand on the package was the same kind I used (Olay), but whitening. So I bought it thinking nothing can make my already pale skin whiter. A month later, I went home for winter break. For the next three weeks, everyone commented on how pasty and sick I look. So pack your moisturizer, foundation, concealer, and powder from home. The latter three may not be available in colors to suit your skin tone anyway, since every company tailors their products to fit the local population.
Make-up is now sold internationally, and it’s mostly the same cosmetic behemoths that dominate the market, so chances are, you will stumble across familiar products with a familiar range of colors. However, that may not always be true: I have a Chanel lipgloss from a range that is sold worldwide. The particular color, however, is offered in Russia, but not in Ukraine; in most Western Europe, but not North American or Asia. So if wearing a particular shade of lipstick or eyeliner is essential to your mental health, bring enough to last you for the time you are away from home.
Snacks/food from home:
Good news — chocolate is available everywhere. So is M&M’s. So are chips, and Pretz sticks, and whatnot.
I usually don’t bother with it. I don’t have particular food habits. If you are going to the US or Western Europe, chance are, your country’s food will be sold somewhere in NYC or any metropolis. Of course, that may not be true I you are going to the middle of nowhere. Some countries impose restrictions on food — make sure it’s not in your carry-on, and that it’s not easily perishable, and that the packaging is not susceptible to breaking.
Make use of those Ziploc bags.
A friend wanted to bring some Russian chocolate over to the US; her luggage got lost, and she only got it back two weeks later. By that time, all the chocolate had melted (it looked like the temperature in the storage room was pretty high), and got all over her clothes
Wherever you are going, if you are flying, keep in mind that you are probably going to have the same weight limit on the way back. And you WILL end up coming back with much more stuff than you came with. It just happens — your luggage tends to grow in weight and size mysteriously. Just accept it as one of greatest mysteries of life. Even if you don’t plan on spending much money or doing major shopping, you will end p with lots of souvenirs, little
Toiletries:
This can be tricky. In my experience, shampoos, conditioners, disposable/regular razors, and toothpaste can be replaced easily — most major brands operate globally. They might not have the same flavor of your Crest toothpaste, but it’s toothpaste it’s talking about. As long as it gets your teeth clean, it should be fine. Toiletries tend to be heavy, so it may be worth packing light, unless you have very special needs — for instance, your hair is only manageable when you us a very specific kind of conditioner, pack light. Make sure you don’t go over your liquids allowance in your carry-on. Speaking of which,
Carry-on:
I usually pack several weather-appropriate changes of clothes in my carry-on so that I would have something to wear while my luggage gets recovered if it gets lost. I had never had my luggage lost until last winter break, when it was lost twice — flying from NYC to Moscow and back. I fly quite often, so I was pretty spoiled by good service and good luck, and did not pay much attention to packing.
On the way to Moscow, I decided again bringing my jacket onboard — it was bulky and I had a bulky carry-on. It was so cold in Europe that week that luggage handlers for AirFrance decided against working (I am quite serious — this is France we are talking about), and my luggage remained in Paris, where I had a layover. So when I landed in Moscow, it was -13F (-25C); and I was wearing jeans, a V-neck sweater, and a mink stole (I am animal-friendly, but you need your fur going to Russia in the winter). At least I was wearing weather-appropriate shoes. Usually friends of family pick me up, but no one could make it that day; and on top of that, Moscow was not my final destination. Imagine how much fun that was.
On the way back, I though I was smart enough to pack some clothes in the carry on, as I usually do, but I ended up getting really busy and packing a several sweaters and no jeans. Instead of going straight to my dorm where I have a reliable wardrobe, I was staying elsewhere for several days. At least AirFrance compensated me for the shopping I had to do!
So morale of the story is — pack some clothes in your carry-on. And if your luggage is lost, do annoy the company until they issue you a compensation.
Things that people most often forget to bring when going to study abroad:
1. An umbrella. I currently have at least one umbrella stored in various locations in five different countries because I always forget to bring one. They are usually cheap to replace and readily available, but it’s no fun to wake up on the day you are due to leave on a short-term trip during, say, orientation week, and it’s raining out, and your umbrella is somewhere across the ocean and you have no idea where to get one.
2. A pen — many, many times I have realize I packed one too far away/left it in a checked suitcase when I had to fill in customs declarations and immigrations forms. You can always borrow one from someone, and some airports provide them, but it’s nicer if you have yours.
3. Contacts solution. They are usually easily replaceable; I am yet to find a country where is it difficult to locate; you can even buy it in North Korea these days — at least I remember it being sold. But when you land in a new country and you are exhausted and jetlagged, last thing you want to is to go look for one. Also, make sure your contacts case is not packed away in your checked luggage along with the rest of your liquids-containing toiletries: on a long flight, you might want to take your contacts out.
4. Socks. Maybe it’s just my personal problem, but I always pack an adequate supply of socks. Not that they are difficult to buy, but it’s annoying. Also, belts. I don’t know what it is with belts, but I had to put a special note on them in my packing list in order not to forget packing them.
5. Various accessories — scarves, hats, mittens, gloves, warm hosiery. If I am packing at the end of the summer, I always have to remind myself that the weather *will* get cold and that I should pack some things to prevent hypothermia. Almost no one I know forgets to bring sweaters and jackets, but almost no one thinks to bring all the small things that keep you warm and keep you stylish,
6. Chargers for your phone/camera/MP3 players etc – since I usually bring my laptop whenever I go, I prefer the USB chargers; they tend to be smaller and more convenient. You can et a USB charger for most everything off eBay if your original hardware didn’t come with it. But regular kind would work, too.
7. Speaking of electronics, you might need a traveling adapter — ideally a universal kind so that you can use all over the world. Those are readily available from most supermarkets and online. I got mine five years ago from a WalMart and made heavy use of it since. You might need a voltage adapter, too, but check if you will really need one — I never had to use one in all my travels.
8. Ear plugs and a neck pillow — I never pack either of these, but many people find them indispensable to moving around — and usually forget to bring them.
9. An MP3 player — even if you are not using  yours much at home or at school, you might want it for that long flight there and back, traveling within your host country, and listening to the music from home. If you are a hardcore pop music fan from the states, then you will hear it blasting from many loudspeakers (I saw a Britney Spears thing in North Korea, for one thing), but if you want something less commonly exported, make sure you upload it on your iPod. They are small and lightweight, and you will most likely regret not bringing one. Don’t forget a charger (see above). Having said that, you might want to find that old iPod you replaced with an iPod Touch: it’s easier to lose things (or have them stolen) while traveling.
10. Water bottle — I find that they are difficult to find in many countries, and you might want to keep one around in case you don’t trust consumer plastics (China) or you want to save money an environment by not buying bottled water and filling it from the tap (Europe).
Here are some things that are absolutely worth bringing over from home:
1. Athletic shoes — if you exercise on a regular basis or planning on doing a lot of walking around (as you probably will end up doing, even if your program is purely an academic one). They are usually more or less expensive; and your new country may not have the same brand/kind you prefer. You want something that you can climb the Great Wall in — or take a day drip to the nearby town and walk everywhere.
2. Ziplop bags — these are great for packing small things like underwear/putting your toiletries in them so that they don’t leak; you can use them while traveling in your new country — great for putting that mango in so that it doesn’t leak all over the plastic supermarket bag in came in and does not get all the contents of your overnight bag yellow. Great for putting that spare battery in so that it doesn’t run against anything metal and short-circuit. It’s funny but ziploc bags may not be readily available in many places; I haven’t seen any in China and they are almost impossible to track down in Eastern Europe.
3. A spork (check out this wikipedia article if you are not sure what it is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spork). I have one that was bought at some Japanese (I think) novelty store around Harvard Square; it feature a spoon, a knife, and a fork.  It’s great for cutting up that papaya that your brought on a day trip for a snack; it’s useful for making oatmeal on the morning when you are in a rush and can’t go get proper breakfast. It’s small and light, but it really made my life much happier — and it saves resources.
Things that are better left at home:
1. An alarm clock — most cell phones work perfectly fine for that. In fact, I never owned one — and am still doing fine. Some mp3 players these days also have an alarm function as well. Having said that, don’t forget to pack your charger (see above), otherwise, your phone will be useless.
2. Snack from home — . If you bring things over, pack them in your checked luggage and make sure it’s not perishable. You don’t want your bag to get lost and get it a week later only to discover those chocolate bits people in your country put on their bread have melted all over your clothes.
3. Converter for your electronics — most electronics these days come suited for wide range of voltage. Having said that, read the manual (google it if you have thrown it out).
4. Leisure reading books. I keep seeing people coming to study abroad with assorted reading materials; these books usually end up being left behind as you need that precious weight for souvenirs and gifts. I know someone who brought over from the US to China an illustrated book on treehouses — a fascinating read no doubt, but really big and heavy. He swears he will take it back home, but we’ll see about that. The point is — if you did not get to reading it home, you will not read it in a new and exciting place where there are things to do to get entertained. Google Books offers classic books for free, if you are comfortable with reading off the screen and urgently need to read Wuthering Heights. If you must read while living abroad, think about investing in a Kindle — expensive, but it may be easier than paying for the luggage that is too heavy. You can buy audiobooks and put them on your iPod — they are usually cheaper than hard copies, too.
The only book worth bringing is your Lonely Planet (I am waiting for them to come out with iPhone app or something). It is now available as a PDF (can be put on your laptop, netbook, or cell phone).  Books in your language can be difficult to come buy, but think about investing in audio books instead or . Many countries have ‘book cafes’ where you can read a variety of books in various languages; Beijing alone has several.
5. Hard copy of a dictionary/phrasebook. Try to get hold of an electronic version/find a suitable app on your iPhone/smart phone.  There are lots of websites that have dictionaries, too. The last time I brought a dictionary with me was in 2003 when I went to live in Germany. I never opened it once and ended up leaving it behind. To me, it’s much easier to ask someone what an unknown word means and how to use it, than to carry a heavy tome in your bag and start flipping through it when you encounter something new.
6. CD’s/DVD’s — they are bulky and will end up being lost or thrown away. Try to upload the contents on your laptop/MP3p player. Don’t risk bringing pirated ones (not that anyone should be buying them), since it can get you in trouble (on the same note, if you study in Asia and buy pirated DVD’s, don’t even try to bring them home — I now people who got in trouble with the American authorities for that).
7. Too many warm clothes if you are going to study abroad in a cold place. Sweaters take up a lot of space and can be often bought cheaply at a variety of locations. You will end up wanting to go shopping, so why not buy things that can actually be useful?
8. Hiking boots –I got to see many a pair of hiking boots that people bring thinking that they will need them while studying in Europe. Usual running shoes usually do unless you are going to be climbing the Everest. Seriously — they are heavy and take up space and you might be inclined to leave them behind on the way back to save up space, so don’t waste money by bringing them over (of course, if your orientation packet specifies bringing them, then do).
9. Special travel gear that you don’t use at home — don’t go invest in that Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket if it is not your style and you never wear it at home. You will probably want to look stylish and blend in with the local population, and most regular clothes can keep you warm and comfortable in a big city on your way to class (which is where most study abroad programs usually are). It might be a tempting idea to invest in something cool and high-tech, feeling like a world traveler — but that’s not necessary and can end up being expensive.
Some more pointers (most travelers know this, but hey, it’s worth going over it again) — things that are useful to bring:
1. Vitamins — they might be expensive in some countries. No matter where you go, traveling is exhausting, so a good multivitamin may be a good idea.
2. Imodium/antihistamines/Dramamine/bandaids. I remember getting really motion-sick in Azerbaijan; having forgotten my Dramamine, I asked a local friend to take me to the pharmacy; it turned out there was no motion sickness medication in the entire country of Azerbaijan. This did not make for a nice trip, since moving everywhere required going by car. Antihistamines may be a good idea for countries like China where the pollution level is high; if you ever had an allergic reaction to anything, make sure you bring Claritin or something similar — you don’t want to get allergic reaction to some intriguing fruit in Thailand and have to spend several hours at a remote area looking for an antihistamine instead of going to the beach (true story). Think about your specific needs — if you ever had an allergic reaction to a mosquito, you will end up in a hotel room during an orientation week with the worse itch. Don’t bring too many medications — many medications. If you sometimes get colds when you are stressed, you will end up getting one from all the air-conditioning and hot air outside your first week in China — and you might want to have something from home rather than some Chinese herbs a local pharmacists advise (not that herbs are bad, but I just feel that proper Western medication can be more efficient, if for placebo effect alone). While I am on this subject, some sort of pill organizer might be useful, but I like keeping the original cardboard package — it might be useful should you wish to replenish your supply or ward off suspicious border guards.
3. If you are taking any prescription drugs, bring necessary supply — and some more. and don’t forget the prescriptions in case the border officers get annoying about your medications. If you are taking something absolutely necessary for your life quality and going on a short  trip, bring a supply that is enough to last for the duration of your trip plus several more days. A friend once got stuck in Thailand during the tsunami; she did not bring enough of her diabetes medication, so she ended up with some vary serious health issues.(If you ever leave your prescription medication behind, you can always Wikipedia it and get the other names under which it may be known; chances are, your durg may have a completely different name in a different country).
4. The best packing advice I have ever heard for long-term traveling was to make a list of the things you use as you go through the day: say, you wake up, wash your face, and brush your teeth — put , face wash, toothpaste, and toothbrush on your list. After you are done with the list, go through it and eliminate things that you might leave home.
5. Make sure your cell phone will work in a new country. Most fancy phones these days will work everywhere, but it’s good to check.
6. Bring some wet tissues and hand sanitizer. I personally never bother with the sanitizer, but wet tissues come in handy when. Paper tissues are good to have, too.
7. Make a good color scan of your passport and email it to yourself with a subject line that is easy to search for. Paper copies are nice for emergencies, too, but a scan svaed online will stay there for many more travels, and can be used should you use your passport and have to go to your embassy. Bring your warranty information.
8. Female hygiene products. Pads are available everywhere, but many countries are rumored to have tampons in short supply. My orientation packet for study abroad in China said that — and I can tell you at least three store chains where they are available. But since tampons are lightweight, it might be easier to bring them from home. I personally have never been to a country where you can’t get hold of tampons —

As the summer is drawing to a close (already!), I have been getting emails from friends going to study abroad asking for packing tips. Some questions were China-specific (“do they sell shampoo there? will it work on my hair?”), and some were rather general — what do I bring? is it even possible to fit enough stuff for one semester in two suitcases? And how many pairs of shoes are enough for four months in Europe?

All I have been doing for the past seven years is studying abroad, so I thought I’d share some ideas publicly– hopefully this will come in handy.

So let’s presume you are packing for at least one semester — be it summer, fall, or spring. You will be taking classes, but most likely will end up going on weekend daytrips/sightseeing/shopping/clubbing etc.

I assume that not forgetting to bring a toothbrush/deodorant/sunscreen/jeans is not an issue — most people don’t forget to pack that anyway, and if you do, most airports will help you replenish your supply. I don’t think I need to stress getting medical insurance and bringing all the necessary information with you — most study abroad programs have made it into a requirement anyway.

Most orientation packets provide some sort of packing lists, but I have never seen one that was really useful. Yours might still have some important country-specific information — e.g., standards of modesty, especially for women (in the usual chauvinistic practices of many worlds cultures, it’s usually women who have to adjust their wardrobe).

I keep a packing list saved on my laptop — everything that I could possibly want to pack, from eyedrops to shoe cream. I use it every time I go somewhere. The problem, of course, is starting packing early enough so that you have time to buy said shoe cream and weight your luggage to make sure you are not over your luggage allowance (arilines have been trying to make extra money by charging ridiculous amount of money for every extra pound, so watch out). This list can also be useful if your luggage gets lost or stolen and you need to file a claim with an airline/insurance company. They will want an itemized list, and you’d be surprised that you might not actually remember what you packed. (For those more organized, take pictures of the contents of your suitcase, especially if you trip had one or more layovers, since your luggage is more likely to get lost when it’s being transported from one plain to another).

Then, of course, people have different needs — I have seen angry discussions on the Internet about whether to bring a micro fleece towel or a terry one (buy locally would be my advice). But here is some basic information. Take it with a grain of salt.

Clothes:

All suggestions about what to bring clothing-wise are subject to much criticism, since everyone’s lifestyle, style, wallet, and wardrobe are very different. It’s easy to dispense advice that we should favor utilitarian clothes — e.g., jeans, long-sleeve shirts, and sneakers — over anything else: they are easier to pack, lighter on the wallet, they wash and dry easily, and travel well. But there is also a feel-good factor.

I, for instance, pack more high-heels than some women probably wear in their lifetime, even though I end up wearing flats 90% of the time, because, let’s face it, streets in Beijing are not heels-friendly. A good friend never travels without at least a dozen clutch bags; she ends up making a use of one or two that match her wardrobe when going out, but hey, they make her happy (and she swears she used all of them while studying in Paris). So pack things that you normally use and wear, but make sure they would survive a trip (I have several vintage hats I love, but squeezing them into a suitcase is not such a good idea).

Wherever your study abroad location is, you are likely to spend more time going out than at home (that would especially apply to the Americans who can’t even enter a proper nightclub until they are 21; and it particularily applies to Americans going to Asia). Even if you don’t plan on going to cheap night clubs in Southeast Asia, sometimes it’s difficult to resist the allure of an expat area bustling with restaurants and cafes. Many feel such occasions warrant for fancier clothing — while it might seem a sensible option for girls to bring just one going out dress if you are only planning on studying, bring two or three. If you are not going to be comfortable wearing the same dress every weekend, bring them from home. A dash to the stores to buy something worthy of going out can be more expensive than planned.

Other than that, it’s fun to go shopping in a new place, and cheap clothing is available at many, many locations worldwide. But if you are going to Asia and you are not tiny (think taller than 5’4” and above a size 2 for women), you might have a problem buying pants/jeans at the stores where locals shop. Tops are usually possible to find in various sizes although fitted ones are tricky. Dress shirts for women, in particular, may not fit right. They might be ok measurements-wise, as in you will fit in them, but the fit will be strange due to non-Asian women usually having a longer torso etc.

International brands in Asia stock all sorts of sizes, but their prices are comparable to those in the West — which is not fun considering that local clothing is a fraction of that price. Also, some international brands may switch their sizing system; there is a European brand that I buy in Europe sometimes, where I am always a Small — but in Asia, that magically transforms into a Large (“Ma’am, would you like to try this garment in an Extra-Large? That might be more appropriate”).  H&M uses their usual sizing, so that doesn’t bruise my ego as much, but it rarely stocks anything above an American 10 (I am usually a 2 or a 4 in their clothes, and they always have it in Beijing, but it seems like most of the time this is the largest size offered).

Also, women may have problems buying shoes in Asia that are above a size 8 (I am an 8.5 and I had a really tough time buying shoes in Hong Kong; many international brands in mainland China carry my size, but it looks like it doesn’t get much bigger than that).

Most Asian programs’ orientation packets modestly ignore the issue of women’s underwear — yet any woman larger than a B cup might have issues buying bras in Asia (and even those B cups will be marked as a C or even a D. Seriously.) Of course, you are supposed to bring your own, but don’t count on buying that convertible bra for that cute dress locally — you may have to end up never wearing the dress. Tights also fall in that category.

If you are particularly tall or/and full-figured, you might not have a very easy time finding things to wear in some parts of Eastern Europe and Africa (from what I hear, some parts of Latin American also fit in that category).

If you are going to Eastern Europe, you may have problem buying comfortable shoes period — most of the ones commonly sold are heels. At least, that’s what happens to me all the time.

As for formal/professional clothes, it’s good to have at least one outfit in case you find a possible internship location/a local TV station decides to interview you/a local politician invites you over etc. You just never know what occasion may warrant an outfit more formal than what you wear to class. So pack it.

Make-up/skin care:

I friend in Beijing was recently looking to buy tinted foundation, and all she could track down was the kind with whitening ingredients in it — quite the opposite of her goal. If you are going to Asia, beware — most cremes, moisturizers, and facewashes come with whitening qualities. I used to think it was all a marketing ploy, until I ran out of my moisturizer once in Hong Kong. All I could find that had a familiar brand on the package was the same kind I used (Olay), but whitening. So I bought it thinking nothing can make my already pale skin whiter. A month later, I went home for winter break. For the next three weeks, everyone commented on how pasty and sick I looked. So pack your moisturizer, foundation, concealer, and powder from home. The latter three may not be available in colors to suit your skin tone anyway, since every company tailors their products to fit the local population.

Thanks to globalization, it’s mostly the same cosmetic behemoths that dominate markets worldwide, so chances are, you will stumble across familiar products with a familiar range of colors. However, that may not always be true: I have a Chanel lipgloss from a range that is sold worldwide. The particular color, however, is offered in Russia, but not in Ukraine; in most Western Europe, but not North American or Asia. So if wearing a particular shade of lipstick or eyeliner is essential to your mental health, bring enough to last you for the time you are away from home.

Snacks/food from home:

Good news — chocolate is available everywhere. So is M&M’s. So are chips, and Pretz sticks, and whatever is you might want to indulge in to deal with homesickness. McDonald’s is available in so many places that it’s not even funny, so fast food cravings are also easy to satisfy (I think there are around five McDonaldses withing a short walking distance from my campus in the middle of nowhere in Beijing. Yet I can’t think of a single one next to my dorm at Yale).

I usually don’t bother with bringing food from home (it doesn’t help that I don’t have a particular home anymore). If you are going to the US or Western Europe, chances are good your country’s food will be sold somewhere in NYC or any metropolis. Of course, that may not be true if you are going to the middle of nowhere. Some countries impose restrictions on food — make sure it’s not in your carry-on, and that it’s not easily perishable, and that the packaging is not susceptible to breaking. (Make use of those Ziploc bags.)

A friend wanted to bring some Russian chocolate over to the US; her luggage got lost, and she only got it back two weeks later. By that time, all the chocolate had melted (it looked like the temperature in the storage room was pretty high), and got all over her clothes. Make sure that does not happen to you — pack all the things that can melt/spill/break in those Ziplocs.

Luggage allowance:

Wherever you are going, if you are flying, keep in mind that you are probably going to have the same weight limit on the way back. And you WILL end up coming back with much more stuff than you came with. It just happens — your luggage tends to grow in weight and size mysteriously. Just accept it as one of greatest mysteries of life. Even if you don’t plan on spending much money or doing major shopping, you will end up with lots of souvenirs, little trinkets, etc. If you’re not prepared to pay fees, underpack by the least amount of extra stuff you think you’d want to bring back.

Toiletries:

This can be tricky. In my experience, shampoos, conditioners, disposable/regular razors, and toothpaste can be replaced easily — most major brands operate globally. They might not have the same flavor of your Crest toothpaste, but it’s toothpaste it’s talking about. As long as it gets your teeth clean, it should be fine. Toiletries tend to be heavy, so it may be worth packing light, unless you have very special needs — for instance, your hair is only manageable when you us a very specific kind of conditioner, pack light. Make sure you don’t go over your liquids allowance in your carry-on. Speaking of which,

Carry-on:

I usually pack several weather-appropriate changes of clothes in my carry-on so that I would have something to wear while my luggage gets recovered if it gets lost. I had never had my luggage lost until last winter break, when it was lost twice — flying from NYC to Moscow and back. I fly quite often, so I was pretty spoiled by good service and good luck, and did not pay much attention to packing.

On the way to Moscow, I decided against bringing my jacket onboard — it was bulky and I had a bulky carry-on. It was so cold in Europe that week that luggage handlers for AirFrance decided against working (I am quite serious — this is France we are talking about), and my luggage remained in Paris, where I had a layover. So when I landed in Moscow, it was -13F (-25C); and I was wearing jeans, a V-neck sweater, and a mink stole (I am animal-friendly, but you need your fur going to Russia in the winter). At least I was wearing weather-appropriate shoes. Usually friends of family pick me up, but no one could make it that day; and on top of that, Moscow was not my final destination. Imagine how much fun that was.

On the way back, I though I was smart enough to pack some clothes in the carry on, as I usually do, but I ended up getting really busy and packing a several sweaters and no jeans. Instead of going straight to my dorm where I have a reliable wardrobe, I was staying elsewhere for several days. At least AirFrance compensated me for the shopping I had to do!

So the moral of the story is — pack some clothes in your carry-on. And if your luggage is lost, do annoy the company until they issue you a compensation.

Things that people most often forget to bring when going to study abroad:

1. An umbrella. I currently have at least one umbrella stored in various locations in five different countries because I always forget to bring one. They are usually cheap to replace and readily available, but it’s no fun to wake up on the day you are due to leave on a short-term trip during, say, orientation week, and it’s raining out, and your umbrella is somewhere across the ocean and you have no idea where to get one.

2. A pen — many, many times I have realized I packed one too far away/left it in a checked suitcase when I had to fill in customs declarations and immigrations forms. You can always borrow one from someone, and some airports provide them, but it’s nicer if you have yours.

3. Contact lenses solution. They are usually easily replaceable; I am yet to find a country where is it difficult to locate; you can even buy it in North Korea these days — at least I remember it being sold. But when you land in a new country and you are exhausted and jetlagged, last thing you want to is to go look for one. Also, make sure your contacts case is not packed away in your checked luggage along with the rest of your liquids-containing toiletries: on a long flight, you might want to take your contacts out.

4. Socks. Maybe it’s just my personal problem, but I always pack an inadequate supply of socks. Not that they are difficult to buy, but it’s annoying. Also, belts. I don’t know what it is with belts, but I had to put a special note on them in my packing list in order not to forget packing them.

5. Various accessories — scarves, hats, mittens, gloves, warm hosiery. If I am packing at the end of the summer, I always have to remind myself that the weather *will* get cold and that I should pack some things to prevent hypothermia. Almost no one I know forgets to bring sweaters and jackets, but almost no one thinks to bring all the small things that keep you warm and keep you stylish.

6. Chargers for your phone/camera/MP3 players etc – since I usually bring my laptop whenever I go, I prefer the USB chargers; they tend to be smaller and more convenient. You can get a USB charger for most everything off eBay if your original hardware didn’t come with it. But regular kinds would work, too.

7. Speaking of electronics, you might need a traveling adapter — ideally a universal kind so that you can use all over the world. Those are readily available from most supermarkets and online. I got mine five years ago from a WalMart and made heavy use of it since. You might also need a voltage adapter, too, but check if you will really need one — I never had to use one in all my travels.

8. Ear plugs and a neck pillow — I never pack either of these, but many people find them indispensable to moving around — and usually forget to bring them.

9. An MP3 player — even if you are not using  yours much at home or at school, you might want it for that long flight there and back, traveling within your host country, and listening to the music from home. If you are a hardcore pop music fan from the states, then you will hear it blasting from many loudspeakers (I saw a Britney Spears thing in North Korea, for one thing), but if you want something less commonly exported, make sure you upload it on your iPod. They are small and lightweight, and you will most likely regret not bringing one. Don’t forget a charger (see above). Having said that, you might want to find that old iPod you replaced with an iPod Touch: it’s easier to lose things (or have them stolen) while traveling.

10. Water bottle — I find that they are difficult to find in many countries, and you might want to keep one around in case you don’t trust consumer plastics (China) or you want to save money an environment by not buying bottled water and filling it from the tap (Europe).

Here are some things that you really want to bring over from home:

1. Athletic shoes — if you exercise on a regular basis or planning on doing a lot of walking around (as you probably will end up doing, even if your program is purely an academic one). They are usually more or less expensive; and your new country may not have the same brand/kind you prefer. You want something that you can climb the Great Wall in — or take a day drip to the nearby town and walk everywhere.

2. Ziplop bags — these are great for packing small things like underwear/putting your toiletries in them so that they don’t leak; you can use them while traveling in your new country — great for putting that mango in so that it doesn’t leak all over the plastic supermarket bag in came in and does not get all the contents of your overnight bag yellow. Great for putting that spare battery in so that it doesn’t run against anything metal and short-circuit. It’s funny but Ziploc bags may not be readily available in many places; I haven’t seen any in China and they are almost impossible to track down in Eastern Europe. They are light and small, so make sure to bring them in several sizes.

3. A spork (check out this wikipedia article if you are not sure what it is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spork). I have one that was bought at some Japanese (I think) novelty store around Harvard Square; it feature a spoon, a knife, and a fork.  It’s great for cutting up that papaya that your brought on a day trip for a snack; it’s useful for making oatmeal on the morning when you are in a rush and can’t go get proper breakfast. It’s small and light, but it really made my life much happier — and it saves resources.

Things that are better left at home:

1. An alarm clock — most cell phones work perfectly fine for that. In fact, I never owned one — and am still doing fine. Some mp3 players these days also have an alarm function as well. Having said that, don’t forget to pack your charger (see above), otherwise, your phone will be useless.

2. Books for leisure reading. I keep seeing people coming to study abroad with assorted reading materials; these books usually end up being left behind as you need that precious weight for souvenirs and gifts. I know someone who brought over from the US to China an illustrated book on treehouses — a fascinating read no doubt, but really big and heavy. He swears he will take it back home, but we’ll see about that. The point is — if you did not get to reading it home, you will not read it in a new and exciting place where there are things to do to get entertained. Google Books offers classic books for free, if you are comfortable with reading off the screen and urgently need to read Wuthering Heights. If you must read while living abroad, think about investing in a Kindle — expensive, but it may be easier than paying for the luggage that is too heavy. You can buy audiobooks and put them on your iPod — they are usually cheaper than hard copies, too.

The only book worth bringing is your Lonely Planet (I am waiting for them to come out with iPhone app or something). It is now available as a PDF (can be put on your laptop, netbook, or cell phone).  Books in your language can be difficult to come buy, but think about investing in audio books instead or . Many countries have ‘book cafes’ where you can read a variety of books in various languages; Beijing alone has several.

3. Hard copy of a dictionary/phrasebook. Try to get hold of an electronic version/find a suitable app on your iPhone/smart phone.  There are lots of websites that have dictionaries, too. The last time I brought a dictionary with me was in 2003 when I went to live in Germany. I never opened it once and ended up leaving it behind. To me, it’s much easier to ask someone what an unknown word means and how to use it, than to carry a heavy tome in your bag and start flipping through it when you encounter something new.

4. CD’s/DVD’s — they are bulky and will end up being lost or thrown away. Try to upload the contents on your laptop/MP3p player. Don’t risk bringing pirated ones (not that anyone should be buying them), since it can get you in trouble (on the same note, if you study in Asia and buy pirated DVD’s, don’t even try to bring them home — I know people who got in trouble with the American authorities for that).

5. Too many warm clothes if you are going to study abroad in a cold place. Sweaters take up a lot of space and can be often bought cheaply at a variety of locations (yes, even in Siberia). You will end up wanting to go shopping, so why not buy things that can actually be useful?

6. Hiking boots –I got to see many a pair of hiking boots that people bring thinking that they will need them while studying in Europe. Usual running shoes usually do unless you are going to be climbing the Everest. Seriously — they are heavy and take up space and you might be inclined to leave them behind on the way back to save up space, so don’t waste money by bringing them over (of course, if your orientation packet specifies bringing them, then do).

7. Special fancy travel gear that you don’t use at home — don’t go invest in that Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket if it is not your style and you never wear it at home. You will probably want to look stylish and blend in with the local population, and most regular clothes can keep you warm and comfortable in a big city on your way to class (which is where most study abroad programs usually are). It might be a tempting idea to invest in something cool and high-tech, feeling like a world traveler — but that’s not necessary and can end up being expensive.

Some more pointers (most travelers know this, but hey, it’s worth going over it again) — things that are useful to bring:

1. Vitamins — they might be expensive in some countries. No matter where you go, traveling is exhausting, so a good multivitamin may be a good idea.

2. Imodium/antihistamines/Dramamine/bandaids/other first-aid remedies. I remember getting really motion-sick in Azerbaijan; having forgotten my Dramamine, I asked a local friend to take me to the pharmacy; it turned out there was no motion sickness medication in the entire country of Azerbaijan. This did not make for a nice trip, since moving everywhere required going by car. Antihistamines may be a good idea for countries like China where the pollution level is high; if you ever had an allergic reaction to anything, make sure you bring Claritin or something similar — you don’t want to get allergic reaction to some intriguing fruit in Thailand and have to spend several hours at a remote area looking for an antihistamine instead of going to the beach (true story). Think about your specific needs — if you ever had an allergic reaction to a mosquito, you will end up in a hotel room during an orientation week with the worse itch. Don’t bring too many medications. If you sometimes get colds when you are stressed, you will end up getting one from all the air-conditioning and hot air outside your first week in China — and you might want to have something from home rather than some Chinese herbs a local pharmacists advise (not that herbs are bad, but I just feel that proper Western medication can be more efficient, if for placebo effect alone). While I am on this subject, some sort of pill organizer might be useful, but I like keeping the original cardboard package — it might be useful should you wish to replenish your supply or ward off suspicious border guards.

3. If you are taking any prescription drugs, bring a necessary supply — and some more, just in case something gets lost or damaged. And don’t forget the prescriptions in case the border officers get annoying about your medications or you end up needing to get more in your host country. If you are taking something absolutely necessary for your life quality and going on a short  trip, bring a supply that is enough to last for the duration of your trip plus several more days. A friend once got stuck in Thailand during the tsunami; she did not bring enough of her diabetes medication, so she ended up with some very serious health issues.(If you ever leave your prescription medication behind, you can always Wikipedia it and get the other names under which it may be known; chances are, your drug may have a completely different name in a different country).

4. The best packing advice I have ever heard for long-term traveling was to make a list of the things you use as you go through the day: say, you wake up, wash your face, and brush your teeth — put , face wash, toothpaste, and toothbrush on your list. After you are done with the list, go through it and eliminate things that you might leave home. Then save it on your computer — for later use.

5. Make sure your cell phone will work in a new country. Most fancy phones these days will work everywhere, but it’s good to check. You can buy a cheap cell phone in most places, but you might want your own phone, if not for calling people, but for listening to the music, or using applications on it.

6. Bring some wet tissues and hand sanitizer. I personally never bother with the sanitizer, but wet tissues come in handy when you are on a plane drinking coffee and it suddenly gets into turbulence. Paper tissues are good to have, too.

7. Make a good color scan of your passport/visa and email it to yourself with a subject line that is easy to search for. Paper copies are nice for emergencies, too, but a scan saved online will stay there for many more travels, and can be used should you use your passport and have to go to your embassy. Bring warranty information for your electronics, too.

8. Female hygiene products. Pads are available everywhere, but many countries are rumored to have tampons in short supply. My orientation packet for study abroad in China said that — and I can tell you at least three store chains where they are available, but that’s in Beijing. Chinese villages may not have them. Since they are small and lightweight, it might be easier to bring them from home.

China’s Information Gap

It seems that foreigners and locals in China live in parallel universes when it comes to information access. Yale’s VPN allows me to freely surf the Internet, while the Chinese teenagers have been Facebook-less for the past month or so. But the access-to-information gap is about much more than that.

I recently went to a talk with Lijia Zhang, the author of Socialism is Great. Her book is not banned in China, but as a Chinese, you will likely not hear about it. Only stores that stock Western literature offer it in China;  most Chinese don’t shop there. When The New York Times published its review, someone cut out the article from all copies of the newspaper that the newspaper stands had. As a Chinese, you will probably not even learn that this book exists: Ms Zhang’s work can be found in several publications, including The New York Times, but nytimes.com is blocked in China.

We Westerners take access to information for granted; be it snapshots of the celebrity du jour or digitized copies of Charles Darwin’s notebooks — it’s all online, and most can be accessed instantly and free of charge. If we decide against having fairly affordable broadband Internet at home, we can probably get it at work — or at the public library. If not, we can get online at Starbucks and at McDonald’s (at least in some countries); our phones likely have Internet access and are often 3G-enabled. Even our MP3 players can get online. If the Internet goes down at our dorm for two hours, we complain. We can chat, Skype, and video chat  with the rest of the world without leaving our room. Most of  our communication with relatives — including our octogenarian grandmothers — takes place online, via emails, Facebook, VoIP software etc.

When I got to China, I was quick to learn all the WiFi places to use my iPhone — Starbucks, bars and restaurant at the expat areas, and a coffee place at the nearby mall. I can use my laptop with the VPN connection there, and there is even VPN software for cell phones now. There is no wireless access on campus, but there is the LAN, so that’s enough to keep me happy. I have access to many more resources — if the VPN doesn’t work, I can ask a friend to copy-paste the content I am interested in and email it to me. If I want to read a book and can’t find it in China, I can take out my US-issued credit card and order it to be shipped over here (books in English are usually not a problem to receive, whatever their content). Overall, I can access whatever information I want at the cost of logging into VPN every time I want to get online. But my reality is very different from that of most Chinese.

Let’s imagine a hypothetical college student questioning the system and willing to learn more about the world and the regime than the government carefully rations. She’s a middle class college student in Beijing. She can speak English pretty well, and has traveled several times outside the country, to Hong Kong and Europe. How would she go about it?

The Chinese government is said to employ over 30,000 Internet censors who ruthlessly block whatever website go against the government’s current Internet policy. Harvard’s Berkman Center for Internet and Society maintains a list of the websites that are found to be blocked in China: It features some websites that I would personally not have interest in seeing, even for the sake of freedom of information (nothing can make me click on a website with ‘midgetsex’ in its domain), but many are well-respected resources such as the BBC.

Most college students in Beijing don’t even know about proxy websites or VPN software (the government doesn’t like this information being in the public domain). Websites that provide proxy services keep being blocked by the censors, though new ones pop up all the time — but one needs to Google them to locate them. Google.com is sometimes blocked (the Great Firewall has issues with it every now and then), but when it’s not, you have to google it in English. Let’s say our college student understands enough about technology, and speaks enough English to find a proxy service online. Without VPN, it is difficult to have full access to many resources. For instances, most proxies seem to only let one login onto Facebook, not efficiently function within it (e.g., one cannot accept friend requests).

To get VPN access, one needs to be affiliated with a foreign institution that provides that service, or to subscribe to one of several online services that provide VPN services on a monthly subscription basis at a reasonable rate, but most of them ask for a foreign credit card. Chinese debit cards are most often not suitable for being used to pay online. Acquiring an actual Visa or MasterCard in China is tedious and expensive. This seems like a strange issue to have — but several years ago, many Russians could not use Skype for the same reason.

Unless our college student has foreign friends who are willing to share their VPN access with her, she is most likely not going to be able to get The Private Life of Chairman Mao off of PirateBay (which is, ironically, banned in China; this post is by no means a suggestion to download it. Go buy it at the store and don’t forget to appreciate how easy it is to do in your country). There is a growing number of foreigners in Beijing, but their number has nothing on the Chinese population, so the chance of an average Beijing student becoming good friends with a foreigner is small.

The situation is of course not hopeless. Ultimately, you cannot completely block information from permeating any space, no matter how hard you try. Our hypothetical student can go to Hong Kong at a reasonable cost and freely use the Internet there. If her English is good enough, they can buy books at the Western book stores. She can study abroad and travel internationally, and then return with a new understanding of on what information she might have been missing out. The internet censors are apparently only proficient in English, since I had no problems reading entire websites dedicated to controversial Chinese issues in other Eastern and Western European languages. Most of the population struggles with their English, but there are still many who gain proficiency in other languages.

Time and time again, it surprises me that no one seems to mind as much. Our Chinese roommates could also attend the talk with Ms Zhang — and only one out of about sixty showed up.  They were simply lacking interest. By the way, Lijia Zhang organized the biggest workers’ protest in Nanjing after the Tiananmen events, and her personality, if not her book, is extremely interesting. If the overall lack of interest in accessing controversial information remains so low, the government may not even have to bother with the Green Dam or any other semi-ridiculous effort to limit population’s access to information.

Freedom to do What?

On a Wednesday, my teachers announced they had cancelled our weekly Friday test, and instead of having a dictation the next day, we were going to relax and discuss American and Chinese education systems with our Chinese roommates.
For three weeks before that, my weekdays have been pretty monotonous. Get up at 7am, make coffee, study for daily dictation, go to class at 8:30am; have two classes, then get a 20minute long break at 10:20, get a snack; have two more classes, get out at 12:30pm, have lunch at the cafeteria, then have an individual session with a teacher; go to the gym, shower,  take a nap; get some fruit/eat out at 6pm, go to the office hours at 7pm; start doing homework around 8pm, either at the dorm or a coffee house, then go to bed around midnight. There are daily dictations and weekly exams, and a whole lot of hw, consisting of as much at 90 characters to memorize a day.
So on that Wednesday, I had just  one piece of homework and no characters to memorize. At 5pm, I found myself confused in my dorm room. I had gone to the gym, showered, tidied up my room, did laundry, and went fruit-shopping.  This had exhausted my list of potential activities. We are located sort of in the middle of nowhere in Beijing, and  When you have been told what to do even for a short period of time, it seems very difficult to go back to my usual Yale mode, where I can always mix and match and choose and improvise.
This reminded me of the way Russians who study abroad often feel: they have too much freedom, and they don’t necessarily like it.
Several Russian friends had been accepted to American colleges after many years of hard work at school, numerous English classes, grueling language and aptitude tests, and a long application process . But when they enrolled, they hated their experience. The schools were good and foreign student-friendly, and there was staff on hand to advise them on their issues, but they said they didn’t know what to do with “all that freedom.”
In Russia and many Post-Soviet Bloc, the education system makes decisions for you. You can’t choose classes in primary, middle, or high school (maybe a language if you are lucky, but the choice mostly varies between English and German). When you go to college, it tells you what exams to take for a specific major you are applying for. Once you have enrolled, it’s virtually impossible to change your major. Your colleges decides what classes you will be taking, and issues you a schedule upon beginning every semester. Moreover, you usually don’t get to decide what your thesis or term papers are going to be about; your professors do it for you. If you are a part of the Western education system, this description sounds like –um, a Russian boot camp? But most Russian students never really complain; they are used to the system and accept it the way it is.
China has a very similar education system, and I strongly suspect many Chinese students face similar problems in Western universities. Freedom of choice can be daunting. When you suddenly have to make your own decisions, how do you do it? In Russia, students often enter college at around 17 or 18, and many simply don’t know what major to choose, so their parents make decisions for them.
“Why don’t you go be an engineer? They can always get jobs. I know you like writing, but that’s never going to make money.” — I have witnessed countless conversations like this in Eastern Europe. Many end up with jobs that don’t match their interests and personality, but some do, so the system works somehow. Mostly no one complains.
Have you noticed that many Eastern European students in the US liberal arts schools stick to majors like chemistry, math, computer science, economics, biology, etc. They tend to go for majors that have a very defined core curriculum and a more or less obvious post-graduation career path. That’s what happens when you are not used to the liberal arts system of studying a little bit of this, a little bit of that, and settling for a job that is probably not even related to your political science major.
It’s very different in China. It seems that one of the reasons why Communism became such a successful ideology in China is the way society functions here. Historically, there  have been many rules in places that guard intersocietal interactions. If you are a woman, you were expected to obey, in turn, your father, your husband, and your son; you were supposed to give birth to many sons. As a man, you were supposed to get married and bring your wife to live with your family. I am not going to go on a Chinese studies lecture here, but these rules have always been much more clearly defined and much more often followed than, say, Western societal behavior standards. Many of these rules have now disintegrated or at least weakened, but the society is still very much ready to follow someone’s lead. You can’t really pull that trick on the Americans or Western Europeans.
Now, there is something about Russian culture that lends itself to a similar situation. I still can’t put my finger on it, but Russians are very comfortable with having a strong, paternal figure leading the nation — and essentially telling them what to do and what to think. It seems to go against all the teachings of Western political philosophers, so when I am in the US, I am always baffled to comprehend it, since the Western liberal arts tradition affects my thinking, but when I am in Russia, that question disappears. The situation and the way people accept it seems to be very natural.  Russians feel comfortable having a leader who has a strong opinion on what needs to be done; and to have a lot of freedom — in the Western, democratic sense of the world — means stepping out of that comfort zone. This is why Russians do not understand why the rest of the world criticizes their government for being authoritarian. If one doesn’t want freedom, why complain about lacking it?
The families of Russian journalists who were murdered after investigating sensitive topics complain about the lack of the freedom of speech that results in democratic freedoms being limited. But average Russians is not affected by that; they gladly let the government guide their opinion on foreign affairs.
The New York Times recently had a feature on the Chinese equivalent of the SATs — the gao kao (高考. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/13/world/asia/13exam.html?scp=1&sq=gao%20kao&st=cse
When I read the article, I thought the gao kao was a terrible system.  In China, you don’t get any choice while applying to college: if you want to go to a good college, your sole option is to put in hundreds of hours of studying time and to hope that others have studied less than you.
The American system seemed much more superior. While applying, you do need to take some exam  — the SAT’s and the SAT Subject Tests, but you also need to submit essays and recommendations. And some colleges don’t even require SAT’s anymore. You get more freedom that way, right? Theoretically, you can get into any college just because of your interesting life. Ideally, in high school, you are free to choose volunteering over frequenting the library — and you can still go to great school. Even if you don’t go to brand-name school, you can still get a great education and have an amazing career. If you do go to a famous school, you can probably drop out halfway through and become a billionaire. You are free to make your own choices.
What strikes me about China is that no one seems to mind what Westerners deem to be the terrible lack of freedom.
I always thought that the poor, oppressed Chinese masses are so very sad over banned YouTube and Wikipedia — and now Facebook and Twitter — and are dying to get to use them. So here I am in China, with Yale’s VPN access that allows me to freely use said services, and no one else wants to take advantage of that. I spotted a YouTube-enabled camera at the store and asked my roommate if she knew what it was; she did. Would she like to use it on my laptop, I asked. Nah, she said, she can get most of the videos she wants to watch off of Chinese YouTube substitutes (with content carefully screened and censored, of course).
I don’t know if it’s my rebellious personality or the Western ideals of having access to whatever information we please, but if It were me, I would be on YouTube 24/7 in China. Just to get the government angry and express my protest.
In the USSR, the government banned many books, but many people copied them by hand and secretly passed copies around. My parents claim that over 95% of their friends (not a very reactionary crowd, to be honest) had read all the banned authors weeks before they were banned. The government was of course unhappy, but it’s difficult to control was every household is reading.
I always thought that in China, with its 1.5-strong population, the government would find it much harder to control these things; also, with the new technologies, a VPN access or a basic proxy service would easily provide one with access to everything that the government is trying to hide. I was half-expecting engaging in heated discussions with the locals on Wikipedia articles that go against the Party’s ideology or The Secret Life of Chairman Mao. But no one really is discussing them, or even interested in discussing them. Well, I am sure there are some people who are, but there are obviously not many of them.
And no one minds the gao kao, either. Most people who have been through are quick to criticize it, but I personally complain about the SAT’s more than most Chinese students complain about the gao kao.  I got to hear some complains about the education system, but if you read the Yale Daily News or any other college newspaper, you come across much more criticism.
I used to think locals were reluctant to criticize anything government-imposed, but there is a lot of government criticism present, although it’s really mellow. I can see why the political apathy would be predominant over here. In the USSR, countless political education classes and meetings and memorizing valuable Communist works made many hate the politics; but their hatred had a direction. People told jokes making fun of the leaders and made fun of the newspapers’ empty mottos. This dissatisfaction with the government facilitated the collapse of the USSR.
But here, it’s often apathy through and through. I haven’t met that many Chinese, but among many people my age there was only one who was interested in politics; and that was limited to claiming that that Taiwan belongs to China. And most young people are much more interested in contemplating schemes to import iPhones into China than in answering questions about Chinese politics that I have to ask the locals for my homework.  After all, why care about elusive freedom if you can be a satisfied consumer?
And yet, the YouTube app on those black market iPhones doesn’t work. No one minds; they just install the Chinese YouTube analogue app that does.

On a Wednesday, my teachers announced they had canceled our weekly Friday test, and instead of having our usual dictation the next day, we were going to discuss American and Chinese education systems with our Chinese roommates.

For three weeks before that, my weekdays have been pretty monotonous: Get up at 7am, make coffee, study for daily dictation, go to class at 8:30; have two classes, have a long break at 10:20, get a snack; have two more classes, get out at 12:30pm, have lunch at the cafeteria, have an individual session with a teacher; go to the gym, shower,  take a nap; get some fruit/eat out at 6pm, go to the office hours at 7pm; start doing homework around 8pm, go to bed around midnight.

But on that Wednesday, I had just one page worth of homework. At 5pm, I found myself very confused. I had gone to the gym, showered, tidied up my room, did laundry, and gone fruit-shopping.  I had exhausted my list of potential activities. My campus is far from the more exciting locales of Beijing, so going out to, say, shop is a almost a day trip. As I pondered my entertainment options, I realized that it was the first time I did not know what to do with my free time in this new, exciting city. For three weeks straight, I was given an inflexible schedule, and I was used to that. When you have been told what to do even for a short period of time, it seems very difficult to start making one’s own decisions all of a sudden.

This reminded me of the way Russians who study abroad often feel: they have too much freedom, and they often don’t like it.

Several Russian friends had been accepted to American colleges after many years of hard work at school, numerous English classes after school, grueling language and aptitude tests, and a long application process. But when they enrolled, they hated every day of it. Their schools had great facilities, friendly professors, and useful international student advisers; but my friends still didn’t know what to do with “all that freedom.”

In Russia and many Eastern European countries, the education system makes decisions for you. You cannot choose classes at any point in school (maybe a  foreign language if you are lucky, but the choice mostly varies between English and German). When you go to college, you are told what exams to take for the major for which you are applying. It’s virtually impossible to change your major after passing the entrance exam. Your college will then decide what classes you will be taking, and when you will be taking them. You professors tell you on what subjects to write your term papers. If you are a part of the Western education system, this description sounds like –um, a Russian boot camp? But you don’t see many Russian students complaining; they are used to the system and accept it the way it is.

China has a very similar education system, and I strongly suspect many Chinese students face similar problems when going to a Western-style university.

Freedom of choice can be daunting. When you — all of a sudden — have to make your own decisions, how do you do it? In Russia, students often enter college when they are 17 or 18, and many do not have distinct academic interests yet, so their parents choose their major and school and more for them.

“Why don’t you study engineering and become an engineer? They can always get jobs. I know you like writing, but that’s never going to make money.” — I have witnessed countless conversations like this in Eastern Europe. Many college graduates end up with jobs that don’t match their interests and personality, but some do, so the system is working. Mostly no one complains.

Have you noticed that many Eastern European students in the US liberal arts schools stick to majors like chemistry, math, computer science, economics, and biology? They tend to go for majors that have a very defined core curriculum and a more or less obvious post-graduation career path. That’s what happens when you are not used to the liberal arts system of studying a little bit of this, a little bit of that, and settling for a job that is probably not even related to your political science major.

It’s very different in China. It seems that Communism became such a successful ideology in China partly because the society there is used to obeying the authority. Historically, there  have been many rules in places that guard intersocietal interactions. If you are a woman, you were expected to obey, in turn, your father, your husband, and your son, and you were supposed to give birth to many sons. As a man, you were supposed to get married and bring your wife to live with your family. I am not going to deliver a Chinese studies lecture here, but these rules have always been much more clearly defined and much more often followed than, say, Western societal behavior standards. Many of these rules have now disintegrated or at least weakened, but the society is still very much ready to follow someone’s lead. You can’t really pull that trick on the Americans or Western Europeans.

Now, there is something about Russian culture that lends itself to a similar situation. I still can’t put my finger on it, but Russians are very comfortable with having a strong, paternal figure leading the nation — and essentially telling them what to do and what to think. It seems to go against all the teachings of Western political philosophers, so when I am in the US, I am always baffled to comprehend it, since the Western liberal arts tradition affects my thinking, but when I am in Russia, that question disappears. The situation and the way people accept it seems to be very natural.  Russians feel comfortable having a leader who has a strong opinion on what needs to be done; and to have a lot of freedom — in the Western, democratic sense of the world — means stepping out of that comfort zone. This is why Russians do not understand why the rest of the world criticizes their government for being authoritarian. If one doesn’t want freedom, why complain about lacking it?

The families of Russian journalists who were murdered after investigating sensitive topics complain about the lack of freedom of speech that results in democratic freedoms being limited. But average Russians are not affected by that; they gladly let the government guide their opinion on foreign affairs.

The New York Times recently had a feature on the Chinese equivalent of the SATs — the gao kao (高考).

When I read that article, I thought the gao kao was a terrible system.  In China, you don’t get any choice while applying to college: if you want to go to a good college, your sole option is to put in hundreds of hours of studying time and to hope that others have studied less than you.

The American system seemed much more superior. While applying, you do need to take some exam  — the SAT’s and the SAT Subject Tests, but you also need to submit essays and recommendations. And some colleges don’t even require SAT’s anymore. You get more freedom that way, right? Theoretically, you can get into any college just because of your interesting life. Ideally, in high school, you are free to choose volunteering over frequenting the library — and you can still go to great school. Even if you don’t go to brand-name school, you can still get a great education and have an amazing career. If you do go to a famous school, you can probably drop out halfway through and become a billionaire. You are free to make your own choices.

What strikes me about China is that no one seems to mind what Westerners deem to be the terrible lack of freedom.

I always thought that the poor, oppressed Chinese masses are so very sad over banned YouTube and Wikipedia — and now Facebook and Twitter — and are dying to get to use them. So here I am in China, with Yale’s VPN access that allows me to freely use said services, and no one else wants to take advantage of that. I spotted a YouTube-enabled camera at the store and asked my roommate if she knew what it was; she did. Would she like to use it on my laptop, I asked. Nah, she said, she can get most of the videos she wants to watch off of Chinese YouTube substitutes (with content carefully screened and censored, of course).

I don’t know if it’s my rebellious personality or the Western ideals of having access to whatever information we please, but if It were me, I would be on YouTube 24/7 in China. Just to get the government angry and express my protest.

In the USSR, the government banned many books, but many people copied them by hand and secretly passed copies around. My parents claim that over 95% of their friends (not a very reactionary crowd, to be honest) had read all the banned authors weeks before they were banned. The government was of course unhappy, but it’s difficult to control was every household is reading.

I always thought that in China, with its 1.5-billon-strong population, the government would find it much harder to control these things; also, with the new technologies, a VPN access or a basic proxy service would easily provide one with access to everything that the government is trying to hide. I was half-expecting engaging in heated discussions with the locals on Wikipedia articles that go against the Party’s ideology or The Secret Life of Chairman Mao. But no one is really discussing them, or even interested in discussing them. Well, I am sure there are some people who are, but they are either few in number or mostly invisible.

And no one minds the gao kao, either. Most people who have been through are quick to criticize it, but I personally complain about the SAT’s more than most Chinese students complain about the gao kao.  I got to hear some complains about the education system, but if you read The Yale Daily News or any other college newspaper, you come across much more criticism.

I used to think locals were reluctant to criticize anything government-imposed, but there is a lot of government criticism present, although it’s really mellow. I can see why the political apathy would be predominant over here. In the USSR, countless political education classes and meetings and memorizing valuable Communist works made many hate the politics; but their hatred had a direction. People told jokes making fun of the leaders and made fun of the newspapers’ empty mottos. This dissatisfaction with the government facilitated the collapse of the USSR.

But here, it’s often apathy through and through. I haven’t met that many Chinese, but among many people my age there was only one who was interested in politics; and that was limited to claiming that that Taiwan belongs to China. And most young people are much more interested in contemplating schemes to import iPhones into China than in answering questions about Chinese politics that I have to ask the locals for my homework.  After all, why care about elusive freedom if you can be a satisfied consumer?

The YouTube app on those black market iPhones doesn’t work. No one minds; they just install the Chinese YouTube analogue app that does.

Capitalist Authoritarianism?

It was the very first day of big summer sales. A friend and I hit several stores, emerging with bagfuls of clothing and accessories. She had found a pair of Zara shoes that she liked, but they ran out of her size. So we went to a Starbucks to get a latte, and I took out my iPhone to check if they were other malls with a Zara store in them so that we could go hunt down her size.

Does that sound familiar to you? I’ve had very similar experiences from Moscow to Berlin to New York; this time around, it was Beijing. I had been to Beijing several times before, my activities mostly limited to seeing millenia-old buildings or Communist memorabilia. So it had never occurred to me that Beijing was actually quite a shopper’s paradise.(Do blame airlines’ ridiculous weight allowances for my need to go indulge in consumerism).

Surprisingly, Beijing is in many ways much more consumerism-friendly than Moscow or NYC. Its malls are mostly very recently built (the one we went to is only two years old), and they feature exciting architecture, spacious food courts, and escalators galore (not to mention ubiquitous ads mostly featuring very Caucasian models). Beijingers love their sales as much as any red-blooded capitalist, and they enjoy a nice array of European, American, and Asian brands. There are, of course, cultural differences: Starbucks features coffee with jelly in it (jelly is added to various beverages in China); most snacks on display are cut-up fruit, not deep-fried-high-trans-fat-inedible-fast food; 99% of moisturizers feature whitening ingredients; I need a Small in European brands, an Extra-small in American ones (talk about vanity sizing), and a Large/Extra large in the Asian ones (talk about bruised ego). Plus, the Asian brands never carry my shoes size (a shocking 8-8.5). Other than that, local malls have that cosmopolitan feel to them that so many others ones all over the world do. Good for Bejing and Beijingers and us expats, right?

This picture could have been taken in the US or Europe

Having grown up in a post-Communist environment and having heard stories about shortage of everything, food and toilet paper included, I really came to appreciate being able to choose a gym bag from fifty different colors and shapes in at least twenty stores at the same mall. Of course, there is an income gap and the fact that most of the population will never be able to afford said gym bag, yet alone a coffee at Starbucks, but I’ve spent enough time in Russia to stop being sensitive to that fact. What really shocked me about local malls was how un-communist it all felt. Here I was in a middle of a country that blocks YouTube and -sometimes – Google, sets limits on the height of dogs, and requires foreigners to register with the authorities for as long as a one night stay with friends — not too mention much more serious violations of jus cogens — and everyone was happily hitting the sales. I wonder if the key to having a successful authoritarian regime is providing the masses with enough entertainment to make them forget the politics of it all?

Several Chinese friends who speak good English didn’t know the English word for ‘communism’, yet they can comfortably discuss lattes, sales, hairstyles, and what’s in vogue. I told a friend a joke about the CCP standing for the Chinese Capitalist Party, and she thought it was so true she had texted it to her friends right away. Many young adults appear not to care about Mao, Deng, or “whoever-the-leader-is-at-the-moment.” They have been through some political education classes, but never paid attention. They know that people sometimes disappear, but they stopped worrying about a long time ago, because most people don’t. They study English and want to go to college in the US, Europe, and Australia, or, in the worst case scenario, get a job with a foreign company in Beijing or Shanghai. They admit they don’t care about politics. All they want is a lifestyle filled with friends, fun, and shopping.

When I went on a day trip to a nearby village (very tourist-oriented, with all sorts of signs and sights and whatnot), many houses had signs that read: “Beijing Rural Tourism Household — Rated by Beijing Rural Tourism Household Rating Commission.” Which means there is a special government body that walks around rating rural households: “Congratulations, you made it! You are now a model household fit for being showed off to tourists!” That seems like a little too much government intervention to me.

Beijing Rural Household Rating Commission

China has just now blocked Facebook. Now, when they clocked YouTube I didn’t mind as much since I am not an avid user; but Facebook?!

In the meantime, life goes on. The malls are filed with customers, and the Internet censors are hard at work.

First Week in China

How exotic can a blonde on a treadmill be?

I have been asking myself that question for the past week.

I signed up for a 2 months membership at a neighborhood gym in Beijing (yes, I am in Beijing for the next 6 or so months; more details later). It’s a great gym with all sorts of facilities, and a great membership price ($40 for 2 months!). Their trademark is asking their patrons about their zodiac signs, and then putting them on the membership cards. Here’s mine:

Gym Membership Card

Just how cool is this kickboxing bull? 🙂

So yes, I am loving this gym, and it’s great to go while going to combat the stress of five hours of Chinese class five times a week. The only problem is that I attract too much attention. Other gym-goers have been randomly whipping out cameras/cell phones and taking pictures of me. Furthermore, people have been taking pictures of me at subway stations. A few days ago I got approached by a waiter at dinner who asked me if I was Russian. (Is my citizenship written in large neon letters on my forehead? I am not ethnically Russian) She explained that I am “blonde and pretty” and hence Russian.

I used to be pretty self-conscious about things like this (you know, being taken pictures of while sweaty and running that last mile), but I thankfully got over it several years ago in Hong Kong. But I still find it pretty funny.

I am really enjoying China so far, save for the going to class part (ok, ok, I do like my 25 hours of Chinese per week, but shhhh, it’s a secret). I have been experimenting with buying interesting Chinese foods a lot. This is something that they call ‘grass jelly’ in Hong Kong.

Grass Jelly

These packages come with a thick layer of plastic that takes a lot of stabbing with scissors to open. As far as I can tell, they fall into a category of Chinese dessert. And yes, I have been living without chocolate for over a week now. I have managed to track down coffee (of the instant variety, but that’s still pretty good), but chocolate isn’t available just about everywhere unlike in the westernized parts of the world. Oh well — we’ll see how long I can make it without chocolate.

The US In Need of Perestroika?

Gorbachev’s 1987 perestroika signaled beginning of the end for the USSR. Perestroika means re-building in Russian; it primarily referred to re-structuring of the Soviet economy, although it did lead to significant political changes in the Soviet bloc. It collapsed, erasing one  of  our two superpowers from the world’s geopolitical map, making for a unipolar and then a multipolar world… and the rest is really poli sci 101.

Twenty-ones years later, Mr. Gorbachev is back proposing a new kind of perestroika: for the US.

America needs perestroika right now. I did a lecture in the US and said the country needs its own perestroika and I got a 10 minute standing ovation,” said the man whose own policies helped trigger the collapse of the Soviet Union. “

(President) Obama’s proposals will be bigger than perestroika. I want to wish success to Obama and his Cabinet, because the problems he has to deal with are not easy ones.

Of course, President Obama is not exactly leading a Communist nation with command economy, but he does need to change, maybe fundamentally, the way economics in the US functions.

Interestingly enough, Gorbachev challenged the communist behemoth and ended up making it capitalist; Barack Obama, president of possibly the most pro-capitalist nation in the world, is perceived as ‘socialist’ by his political foes. He was in fact accused of being a socialist during his campaign. Remember Joe the Plumber’s accusation of Obama being on the ‘slippery Socialist slope’ of trying to ‘spread the wealth’?

Whether it is called socialism, communism, or any other -ism, Obama’s plan to ‘spread the wealth around’ makes sense in this economy. The supposed wonders of free economy led to the worse economic downturn since the Great Depression. What’s worse is its impact on the world; the recession in the US caused a domino effect of national currencies worldwide tanking, trade stalling, consuption fallin, and a myriad other negative effects. At least the USSR’s socialism/communism and its ill economic consequences was limited to only a handful of countries.

As Mr. Gorbachev knows all too well, socialism has many problems. As President Obama is learning, capitalism has serious problems of its own. It seems that what they need is a perestroika of economic theory, not just economic policies.