My China in Numbers

As my summer program is over, and my semester at Beijing University is about to start, I thought it was time to sum some things up.

0: number of times I felt unsafe in Beijing. That’s a record among all my travels: only Hong Kong felt safer to me;

0: number of time I heard ‘economic crisis’ outside the classroom; about 1,000,000 — number of times I heard it in the U.S. or Russia every day;

0.25: cost of one lamb kebab, in USD;

0.6-0.7: cost of a large cup of bubble tea, in USD;

0.7: average cost of a fake DVD, in USD;

1: emergency root canal = 1 cancelled trip to Inner Mongolia;

1: big culture shock so far (see this post);

1.1: average cost of a very filling dinner for one, in USD (that’s just me, of course, and I don’t eat much meat, which tends to be more expensive, but it’s still very illustrative;

2: years I have left at Yale (of which one semester will be spent in Beijing);

3: number of different H&M’s I have gone to one fine day in Beijing (purely for comparison purposes, of course)

4: months I have left in China (which makes me very happy);

6: average number of students in one room at a college dorm in China (1 or 2 at Yale; 2 at Yale-PKU Joint Undegraduate Program, thankfully);

7-14: allowance, per day of rehearsal, that the government pays to the students preparing for the big parade to be held on the National Day (Oct. 1), in USD — the first big rehearsal was held already: check this story.

10: (very happy) weeks I’ve spent in Beijing so far;

35cm (1.1 foot): maximum allowed height for dogs in Beijing (dogs who happen to outgrow it are often put to sleep or simply abandoned);

60: number of years China will be turning on Oct. 1; 1,000,000: number of crazy security measures the government in undertaking;

100: approximate number of cups of bubble tea I consumed in China so far;

570: monthly salary of a teacher at my summer program, in USD (and that’s apparently pretty good by local standards);

800: the approximate number of new Chinese words I learned this summer;

200,000: participants in aforementioned National Day parade;

Over 17 million: Beijing’s population (for comparison, NYC’s population is under 9 million; Moscow’s is estimated to be 12 million)

Infinite: reasons to come to China

Don’t Forget Your Camera — What to Pack for Study Abroad (including China)

As the summer is drawing to a close, I have been getting emails from friends going to study abroad (junior year abroad, anyone?) asking me for packing tips. All I have been doing for the past seven years is studying abroad, so I thought I’d share some ideas — hope this will come in handy.
So let’s presume you are packing for at least one semester — be it summer, fall, or spring. You will be taking classes, but most likely will end up going on weekend daytrips/sightseeing/shopping/clubbing etc.
I assume that bringing a toothbrush/deodorant/sunscreen/jeans is not an issue — most people don’t forget to pack that anyway, and if you do, most airports will help you replenish your supply. I don’t think I need to stress getting medical insurance and bringing all the necessary information with you — most study abroad programs have made it into a requirement anyway.
Most orientation packets provide some sort of packing lists, but I have never seen one that was actually useful. Yours might still have important country-specific information — e.g., standards of modesty, especially for women (in the usual chauvinistic practices, it’s usually women who have to adjust their wardrobe most of the time).
I keep a packing list saved on my laptop — everything that I could possibly want to pack, from eyedrops to shoe cream. I use it every time I go somewhere. The problem, of course, is starting packing early enough so that you have time to buy said shoe cream and weight your luggage to make sure you are not over your luggage allowance. This list can be useful if your luggage gets lost or stolen and you need to file a claim with aan airline/insurance company. They will want an itemized list, and you’d be surprised that you might not actually remember what you packedd. (For those more organized, take pictures of the contents of your suitcase).
Of course, people have different needs — I have seen angry discussions on the Internet about whether to bring a micro fleece towel or a terry one (buy locally would be my advice).
Clothes:
Talking about what to bring clothing-wise is prone to most criticism, since everyone’s needs are very different. I for one pack more high-heels than some women probably wear in their lifetime; and I end up wearing flats 90% of the time, because, let’s face it, streets in Beijing are not heels-friendly. A friend never travels without at least a dozen clutch bags; she ends up making a use of one or two that match her wardrobe when going out, but hey, they make her happy (and she swears she used all of them while studying in Paris). But here are some observations.
No matter where you are, you are likely to spend more time going out than at home (that would especially apply to the Americans who can’t even enter a proper nightclub until they are 21). That does not necessarily include going to sleazy night clubs in Southeast Asia; sometimes it’s just difficult to resist the allure of an expat restaurant or a relaxed Friday night out and about. Anyway, such occasions usually warrant for fancier clothing — while it might seem a sensible option for girls to bring just one going out dress if you are only planning on studying, bring two or three. You don’t want to realize you are wearing the same dress every weekend — and a dash to the stores to buy something worthy of going out can be more expensive than planned.
Other than that, it’s fun to go shopping in a new place, and cheap clothing is available at many, many locations worldwide. But if you are going to Asia and you are not tiny (think not taller than 5’4” and above a size 2 for women), you might have a problem buying pants/jeans at the stores where locals shop. International brands stock all sorts of sizes, but their prices are compared to those in the West — which is not fun considering that local clothing is a fraction of that price. Also, some international brands may switch their sizing system; there is a European brand that I buy in Europe sometimes; I am always a Small — but in Asia, that magically transforms into a Large (“Ma’am, would you like to try this garment in an Extra-Large? That might be more appropriate”).  H&M uses their usual sizing, so that doesn’t bruise my ego as much, but it rarely stocks anything above an American 10 (I am their 2 or a 4, and they always have it, but it seems like most of the time this is the largest size offered).
Also, women may have problems buying shoes in Asia that are above a size 8 (I am an 8.5 and I had a really tough time buying shoes in Hong Kong; many international brands in mainland China carry my size, but it looks like it doesn’t get much bigger than that).
Most Asian programs’ orientation packets choose to ignore the issue of women’s underwear — any woman larger than a B cup might have issues buying bras in Asia (and it will be marked as a C or even a D. Seriously. Of course, you are supposed to bring your own, but don’t count on buying that convertible bra for that cute dress locally — you may have to end up never wearing the dress. Tights also fall in that category.
If you are particularly tall or/and full-figured, you might not have a very easy time finding things to wear in some parts of Eastern Europe and Africa (from what I hear, some parts of Latin American also fit in that category).
If you are going to Eastern Europe, you may have problem buying comfortable shoes period — most of the ones commonly sold are heels. At least that’s what happens to me all the time.
As for formal/professional clothes, it’s good to have at least one outfit in case you find a possible internship location/a local TV station decides to interview you/a local politician invites you over etc. You just never know what occasion may warrant an outfit more formal than what you wear to class. So pack it.
Make-up/skin care:
I friend in Beijing was recently looking to buy tinted foundation, and all she could track down was the kind with whitening ingredients in it — quite the opposite of her goal. If you are going to Asia, beware — most cremes, moisturizers, and facewashes come with whitening qualities. I used to think it was all a marketing ploy, until I ran out of my moisturizer once in Hong Kong. All I could find that had a familiar brand on the package was the same kind I used (Olay), but whitening. So I bought it thinking nothing can make my already pale skin whiter. A month later, I went home for winter break. For the next three weeks, everyone commented on how pasty and sick I look. So pack your moisturizer, foundation, concealer, and powder from home. The latter three may not be available in colors to suit your skin tone anyway, since every company tailors their products to fit the local population.
Make-up is now sold internationally, and it’s mostly the same cosmetic behemoths that dominate the market, so chances are, you will stumble across familiar products with a familiar range of colors. However, that may not always be true: I have a Chanel lipgloss from a range that is sold worldwide. The particular color, however, is offered in Russia, but not in Ukraine; in most Western Europe, but not North American or Asia. So if wearing a particular shade of lipstick or eyeliner is essential to your mental health, bring enough to last you for the time you are away from home.
Snacks/food from home:
Good news — chocolate is available everywhere. So is M&M’s. So are chips, and Pretz sticks, and whatnot.
I usually don’t bother with it. I don’t have particular food habits. If you are going to the US or Western Europe, chance are, your country’s food will be sold somewhere in NYC or any metropolis. Of course, that may not be true I you are going to the middle of nowhere. Some countries impose restrictions on food — make sure it’s not in your carry-on, and that it’s not easily perishable, and that the packaging is not susceptible to breaking.
Make use of those Ziploc bags.
A friend wanted to bring some Russian chocolate over to the US; her luggage got lost, and she only got it back two weeks later. By that time, all the chocolate had melted (it looked like the temperature in the storage room was pretty high), and got all over her clothes
Wherever you are going, if you are flying, keep in mind that you are probably going to have the same weight limit on the way back. And you WILL end up coming back with much more stuff than you came with. It just happens — your luggage tends to grow in weight and size mysteriously. Just accept it as one of greatest mysteries of life. Even if you don’t plan on spending much money or doing major shopping, you will end p with lots of souvenirs, little
Toiletries:
This can be tricky. In my experience, shampoos, conditioners, disposable/regular razors, and toothpaste can be replaced easily — most major brands operate globally. They might not have the same flavor of your Crest toothpaste, but it’s toothpaste it’s talking about. As long as it gets your teeth clean, it should be fine. Toiletries tend to be heavy, so it may be worth packing light, unless you have very special needs — for instance, your hair is only manageable when you us a very specific kind of conditioner, pack light. Make sure you don’t go over your liquids allowance in your carry-on. Speaking of which,
Carry-on:
I usually pack several weather-appropriate changes of clothes in my carry-on so that I would have something to wear while my luggage gets recovered if it gets lost. I had never had my luggage lost until last winter break, when it was lost twice — flying from NYC to Moscow and back. I fly quite often, so I was pretty spoiled by good service and good luck, and did not pay much attention to packing.
On the way to Moscow, I decided again bringing my jacket onboard — it was bulky and I had a bulky carry-on. It was so cold in Europe that week that luggage handlers for AirFrance decided against working (I am quite serious — this is France we are talking about), and my luggage remained in Paris, where I had a layover. So when I landed in Moscow, it was -13F (-25C); and I was wearing jeans, a V-neck sweater, and a mink stole (I am animal-friendly, but you need your fur going to Russia in the winter). At least I was wearing weather-appropriate shoes. Usually friends of family pick me up, but no one could make it that day; and on top of that, Moscow was not my final destination. Imagine how much fun that was.
On the way back, I though I was smart enough to pack some clothes in the carry on, as I usually do, but I ended up getting really busy and packing a several sweaters and no jeans. Instead of going straight to my dorm where I have a reliable wardrobe, I was staying elsewhere for several days. At least AirFrance compensated me for the shopping I had to do!
So morale of the story is — pack some clothes in your carry-on. And if your luggage is lost, do annoy the company until they issue you a compensation.
Things that people most often forget to bring when going to study abroad:
1. An umbrella. I currently have at least one umbrella stored in various locations in five different countries because I always forget to bring one. They are usually cheap to replace and readily available, but it’s no fun to wake up on the day you are due to leave on a short-term trip during, say, orientation week, and it’s raining out, and your umbrella is somewhere across the ocean and you have no idea where to get one.
2. A pen — many, many times I have realize I packed one too far away/left it in a checked suitcase when I had to fill in customs declarations and immigrations forms. You can always borrow one from someone, and some airports provide them, but it’s nicer if you have yours.
3. Contacts solution. They are usually easily replaceable; I am yet to find a country where is it difficult to locate; you can even buy it in North Korea these days — at least I remember it being sold. But when you land in a new country and you are exhausted and jetlagged, last thing you want to is to go look for one. Also, make sure your contacts case is not packed away in your checked luggage along with the rest of your liquids-containing toiletries: on a long flight, you might want to take your contacts out.
4. Socks. Maybe it’s just my personal problem, but I always pack an adequate supply of socks. Not that they are difficult to buy, but it’s annoying. Also, belts. I don’t know what it is with belts, but I had to put a special note on them in my packing list in order not to forget packing them.
5. Various accessories — scarves, hats, mittens, gloves, warm hosiery. If I am packing at the end of the summer, I always have to remind myself that the weather *will* get cold and that I should pack some things to prevent hypothermia. Almost no one I know forgets to bring sweaters and jackets, but almost no one thinks to bring all the small things that keep you warm and keep you stylish,
6. Chargers for your phone/camera/MP3 players etc – since I usually bring my laptop whenever I go, I prefer the USB chargers; they tend to be smaller and more convenient. You can et a USB charger for most everything off eBay if your original hardware didn’t come with it. But regular kind would work, too.
7. Speaking of electronics, you might need a traveling adapter — ideally a universal kind so that you can use all over the world. Those are readily available from most supermarkets and online. I got mine five years ago from a WalMart and made heavy use of it since. You might need a voltage adapter, too, but check if you will really need one — I never had to use one in all my travels.
8. Ear plugs and a neck pillow — I never pack either of these, but many people find them indispensable to moving around — and usually forget to bring them.
9. An MP3 player — even if you are not using  yours much at home or at school, you might want it for that long flight there and back, traveling within your host country, and listening to the music from home. If you are a hardcore pop music fan from the states, then you will hear it blasting from many loudspeakers (I saw a Britney Spears thing in North Korea, for one thing), but if you want something less commonly exported, make sure you upload it on your iPod. They are small and lightweight, and you will most likely regret not bringing one. Don’t forget a charger (see above). Having said that, you might want to find that old iPod you replaced with an iPod Touch: it’s easier to lose things (or have them stolen) while traveling.
10. Water bottle — I find that they are difficult to find in many countries, and you might want to keep one around in case you don’t trust consumer plastics (China) or you want to save money an environment by not buying bottled water and filling it from the tap (Europe).
Here are some things that are absolutely worth bringing over from home:
1. Athletic shoes — if you exercise on a regular basis or planning on doing a lot of walking around (as you probably will end up doing, even if your program is purely an academic one). They are usually more or less expensive; and your new country may not have the same brand/kind you prefer. You want something that you can climb the Great Wall in — or take a day drip to the nearby town and walk everywhere.
2. Ziplop bags — these are great for packing small things like underwear/putting your toiletries in them so that they don’t leak; you can use them while traveling in your new country — great for putting that mango in so that it doesn’t leak all over the plastic supermarket bag in came in and does not get all the contents of your overnight bag yellow. Great for putting that spare battery in so that it doesn’t run against anything metal and short-circuit. It’s funny but ziploc bags may not be readily available in many places; I haven’t seen any in China and they are almost impossible to track down in Eastern Europe.
3. A spork (check out this wikipedia article if you are not sure what it is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spork). I have one that was bought at some Japanese (I think) novelty store around Harvard Square; it feature a spoon, a knife, and a fork.  It’s great for cutting up that papaya that your brought on a day trip for a snack; it’s useful for making oatmeal on the morning when you are in a rush and can’t go get proper breakfast. It’s small and light, but it really made my life much happier — and it saves resources.
Things that are better left at home:
1. An alarm clock — most cell phones work perfectly fine for that. In fact, I never owned one — and am still doing fine. Some mp3 players these days also have an alarm function as well. Having said that, don’t forget to pack your charger (see above), otherwise, your phone will be useless.
2. Snack from home — . If you bring things over, pack them in your checked luggage and make sure it’s not perishable. You don’t want your bag to get lost and get it a week later only to discover those chocolate bits people in your country put on their bread have melted all over your clothes.
3. Converter for your electronics — most electronics these days come suited for wide range of voltage. Having said that, read the manual (google it if you have thrown it out).
4. Leisure reading books. I keep seeing people coming to study abroad with assorted reading materials; these books usually end up being left behind as you need that precious weight for souvenirs and gifts. I know someone who brought over from the US to China an illustrated book on treehouses — a fascinating read no doubt, but really big and heavy. He swears he will take it back home, but we’ll see about that. The point is — if you did not get to reading it home, you will not read it in a new and exciting place where there are things to do to get entertained. Google Books offers classic books for free, if you are comfortable with reading off the screen and urgently need to read Wuthering Heights. If you must read while living abroad, think about investing in a Kindle — expensive, but it may be easier than paying for the luggage that is too heavy. You can buy audiobooks and put them on your iPod — they are usually cheaper than hard copies, too.
The only book worth bringing is your Lonely Planet (I am waiting for them to come out with iPhone app or something). It is now available as a PDF (can be put on your laptop, netbook, or cell phone).  Books in your language can be difficult to come buy, but think about investing in audio books instead or . Many countries have ‘book cafes’ where you can read a variety of books in various languages; Beijing alone has several.
5. Hard copy of a dictionary/phrasebook. Try to get hold of an electronic version/find a suitable app on your iPhone/smart phone.  There are lots of websites that have dictionaries, too. The last time I brought a dictionary with me was in 2003 when I went to live in Germany. I never opened it once and ended up leaving it behind. To me, it’s much easier to ask someone what an unknown word means and how to use it, than to carry a heavy tome in your bag and start flipping through it when you encounter something new.
6. CD’s/DVD’s — they are bulky and will end up being lost or thrown away. Try to upload the contents on your laptop/MP3p player. Don’t risk bringing pirated ones (not that anyone should be buying them), since it can get you in trouble (on the same note, if you study in Asia and buy pirated DVD’s, don’t even try to bring them home — I now people who got in trouble with the American authorities for that).
7. Too many warm clothes if you are going to study abroad in a cold place. Sweaters take up a lot of space and can be often bought cheaply at a variety of locations. You will end up wanting to go shopping, so why not buy things that can actually be useful?
8. Hiking boots –I got to see many a pair of hiking boots that people bring thinking that they will need them while studying in Europe. Usual running shoes usually do unless you are going to be climbing the Everest. Seriously — they are heavy and take up space and you might be inclined to leave them behind on the way back to save up space, so don’t waste money by bringing them over (of course, if your orientation packet specifies bringing them, then do).
9. Special travel gear that you don’t use at home — don’t go invest in that Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket if it is not your style and you never wear it at home. You will probably want to look stylish and blend in with the local population, and most regular clothes can keep you warm and comfortable in a big city on your way to class (which is where most study abroad programs usually are). It might be a tempting idea to invest in something cool and high-tech, feeling like a world traveler — but that’s not necessary and can end up being expensive.
Some more pointers (most travelers know this, but hey, it’s worth going over it again) — things that are useful to bring:
1. Vitamins — they might be expensive in some countries. No matter where you go, traveling is exhausting, so a good multivitamin may be a good idea.
2. Imodium/antihistamines/Dramamine/bandaids. I remember getting really motion-sick in Azerbaijan; having forgotten my Dramamine, I asked a local friend to take me to the pharmacy; it turned out there was no motion sickness medication in the entire country of Azerbaijan. This did not make for a nice trip, since moving everywhere required going by car. Antihistamines may be a good idea for countries like China where the pollution level is high; if you ever had an allergic reaction to anything, make sure you bring Claritin or something similar — you don’t want to get allergic reaction to some intriguing fruit in Thailand and have to spend several hours at a remote area looking for an antihistamine instead of going to the beach (true story). Think about your specific needs — if you ever had an allergic reaction to a mosquito, you will end up in a hotel room during an orientation week with the worse itch. Don’t bring too many medications — many medications. If you sometimes get colds when you are stressed, you will end up getting one from all the air-conditioning and hot air outside your first week in China — and you might want to have something from home rather than some Chinese herbs a local pharmacists advise (not that herbs are bad, but I just feel that proper Western medication can be more efficient, if for placebo effect alone). While I am on this subject, some sort of pill organizer might be useful, but I like keeping the original cardboard package — it might be useful should you wish to replenish your supply or ward off suspicious border guards.
3. If you are taking any prescription drugs, bring necessary supply — and some more. and don’t forget the prescriptions in case the border officers get annoying about your medications. If you are taking something absolutely necessary for your life quality and going on a short  trip, bring a supply that is enough to last for the duration of your trip plus several more days. A friend once got stuck in Thailand during the tsunami; she did not bring enough of her diabetes medication, so she ended up with some vary serious health issues.(If you ever leave your prescription medication behind, you can always Wikipedia it and get the other names under which it may be known; chances are, your durg may have a completely different name in a different country).
4. The best packing advice I have ever heard for long-term traveling was to make a list of the things you use as you go through the day: say, you wake up, wash your face, and brush your teeth — put , face wash, toothpaste, and toothbrush on your list. After you are done with the list, go through it and eliminate things that you might leave home.
5. Make sure your cell phone will work in a new country. Most fancy phones these days will work everywhere, but it’s good to check.
6. Bring some wet tissues and hand sanitizer. I personally never bother with the sanitizer, but wet tissues come in handy when. Paper tissues are good to have, too.
7. Make a good color scan of your passport and email it to yourself with a subject line that is easy to search for. Paper copies are nice for emergencies, too, but a scan svaed online will stay there for many more travels, and can be used should you use your passport and have to go to your embassy. Bring your warranty information.
8. Female hygiene products. Pads are available everywhere, but many countries are rumored to have tampons in short supply. My orientation packet for study abroad in China said that — and I can tell you at least three store chains where they are available. But since tampons are lightweight, it might be easier to bring them from home. I personally have never been to a country where you can’t get hold of tampons —

As the summer is drawing to a close (already!), I have been getting emails from friends going to study abroad asking for packing tips. Some questions were China-specific (“do they sell shampoo there? will it work on my hair?”), and some were rather general — what do I bring? is it even possible to fit enough stuff for one semester in two suitcases? And how many pairs of shoes are enough for four months in Europe?

All I have been doing for the past seven years is studying abroad, so I thought I’d share some ideas publicly– hopefully this will come in handy.

So let’s presume you are packing for at least one semester — be it summer, fall, or spring. You will be taking classes, but most likely will end up going on weekend daytrips/sightseeing/shopping/clubbing etc.

I assume that not forgetting to bring a toothbrush/deodorant/sunscreen/jeans is not an issue — most people don’t forget to pack that anyway, and if you do, most airports will help you replenish your supply. I don’t think I need to stress getting medical insurance and bringing all the necessary information with you — most study abroad programs have made it into a requirement anyway.

Most orientation packets provide some sort of packing lists, but I have never seen one that was really useful. Yours might still have some important country-specific information — e.g., standards of modesty, especially for women (in the usual chauvinistic practices of many worlds cultures, it’s usually women who have to adjust their wardrobe).

I keep a packing list saved on my laptop — everything that I could possibly want to pack, from eyedrops to shoe cream. I use it every time I go somewhere. The problem, of course, is starting packing early enough so that you have time to buy said shoe cream and weight your luggage to make sure you are not over your luggage allowance (arilines have been trying to make extra money by charging ridiculous amount of money for every extra pound, so watch out). This list can also be useful if your luggage gets lost or stolen and you need to file a claim with an airline/insurance company. They will want an itemized list, and you’d be surprised that you might not actually remember what you packed. (For those more organized, take pictures of the contents of your suitcase, especially if you trip had one or more layovers, since your luggage is more likely to get lost when it’s being transported from one plain to another).

Then, of course, people have different needs — I have seen angry discussions on the Internet about whether to bring a micro fleece towel or a terry one (buy locally would be my advice). But here is some basic information. Take it with a grain of salt.

Clothes:

All suggestions about what to bring clothing-wise are subject to much criticism, since everyone’s lifestyle, style, wallet, and wardrobe are very different. It’s easy to dispense advice that we should favor utilitarian clothes — e.g., jeans, long-sleeve shirts, and sneakers — over anything else: they are easier to pack, lighter on the wallet, they wash and dry easily, and travel well. But there is also a feel-good factor.

I, for instance, pack more high-heels than some women probably wear in their lifetime, even though I end up wearing flats 90% of the time, because, let’s face it, streets in Beijing are not heels-friendly. A good friend never travels without at least a dozen clutch bags; she ends up making a use of one or two that match her wardrobe when going out, but hey, they make her happy (and she swears she used all of them while studying in Paris). So pack things that you normally use and wear, but make sure they would survive a trip (I have several vintage hats I love, but squeezing them into a suitcase is not such a good idea).

Wherever your study abroad location is, you are likely to spend more time going out than at home (that would especially apply to the Americans who can’t even enter a proper nightclub until they are 21; and it particularily applies to Americans going to Asia). Even if you don’t plan on going to cheap night clubs in Southeast Asia, sometimes it’s difficult to resist the allure of an expat area bustling with restaurants and cafes. Many feel such occasions warrant for fancier clothing — while it might seem a sensible option for girls to bring just one going out dress if you are only planning on studying, bring two or three. If you are not going to be comfortable wearing the same dress every weekend, bring them from home. A dash to the stores to buy something worthy of going out can be more expensive than planned.

Other than that, it’s fun to go shopping in a new place, and cheap clothing is available at many, many locations worldwide. But if you are going to Asia and you are not tiny (think taller than 5’4” and above a size 2 for women), you might have a problem buying pants/jeans at the stores where locals shop. Tops are usually possible to find in various sizes although fitted ones are tricky. Dress shirts for women, in particular, may not fit right. They might be ok measurements-wise, as in you will fit in them, but the fit will be strange due to non-Asian women usually having a longer torso etc.

International brands in Asia stock all sorts of sizes, but their prices are comparable to those in the West — which is not fun considering that local clothing is a fraction of that price. Also, some international brands may switch their sizing system; there is a European brand that I buy in Europe sometimes, where I am always a Small — but in Asia, that magically transforms into a Large (“Ma’am, would you like to try this garment in an Extra-Large? That might be more appropriate”).  H&M uses their usual sizing, so that doesn’t bruise my ego as much, but it rarely stocks anything above an American 10 (I am usually a 2 or a 4 in their clothes, and they always have it in Beijing, but it seems like most of the time this is the largest size offered).

Also, women may have problems buying shoes in Asia that are above a size 8 (I am an 8.5 and I had a really tough time buying shoes in Hong Kong; many international brands in mainland China carry my size, but it looks like it doesn’t get much bigger than that).

Most Asian programs’ orientation packets modestly ignore the issue of women’s underwear — yet any woman larger than a B cup might have issues buying bras in Asia (and even those B cups will be marked as a C or even a D. Seriously.) Of course, you are supposed to bring your own, but don’t count on buying that convertible bra for that cute dress locally — you may have to end up never wearing the dress. Tights also fall in that category.

If you are particularly tall or/and full-figured, you might not have a very easy time finding things to wear in some parts of Eastern Europe and Africa (from what I hear, some parts of Latin American also fit in that category).

If you are going to Eastern Europe, you may have problem buying comfortable shoes period — most of the ones commonly sold are heels. At least, that’s what happens to me all the time.

As for formal/professional clothes, it’s good to have at least one outfit in case you find a possible internship location/a local TV station decides to interview you/a local politician invites you over etc. You just never know what occasion may warrant an outfit more formal than what you wear to class. So pack it.

Make-up/skin care:

I friend in Beijing was recently looking to buy tinted foundation, and all she could track down was the kind with whitening ingredients in it — quite the opposite of her goal. If you are going to Asia, beware — most cremes, moisturizers, and facewashes come with whitening qualities. I used to think it was all a marketing ploy, until I ran out of my moisturizer once in Hong Kong. All I could find that had a familiar brand on the package was the same kind I used (Olay), but whitening. So I bought it thinking nothing can make my already pale skin whiter. A month later, I went home for winter break. For the next three weeks, everyone commented on how pasty and sick I looked. So pack your moisturizer, foundation, concealer, and powder from home. The latter three may not be available in colors to suit your skin tone anyway, since every company tailors their products to fit the local population.

Thanks to globalization, it’s mostly the same cosmetic behemoths that dominate markets worldwide, so chances are, you will stumble across familiar products with a familiar range of colors. However, that may not always be true: I have a Chanel lipgloss from a range that is sold worldwide. The particular color, however, is offered in Russia, but not in Ukraine; in most Western Europe, but not North American or Asia. So if wearing a particular shade of lipstick or eyeliner is essential to your mental health, bring enough to last you for the time you are away from home.

Snacks/food from home:

Good news — chocolate is available everywhere. So is M&M’s. So are chips, and Pretz sticks, and whatever is you might want to indulge in to deal with homesickness. McDonald’s is available in so many places that it’s not even funny, so fast food cravings are also easy to satisfy (I think there are around five McDonaldses withing a short walking distance from my campus in the middle of nowhere in Beijing. Yet I can’t think of a single one next to my dorm at Yale).

I usually don’t bother with bringing food from home (it doesn’t help that I don’t have a particular home anymore). If you are going to the US or Western Europe, chances are good your country’s food will be sold somewhere in NYC or any metropolis. Of course, that may not be true if you are going to the middle of nowhere. Some countries impose restrictions on food — make sure it’s not in your carry-on, and that it’s not easily perishable, and that the packaging is not susceptible to breaking. (Make use of those Ziploc bags.)

A friend wanted to bring some Russian chocolate over to the US; her luggage got lost, and she only got it back two weeks later. By that time, all the chocolate had melted (it looked like the temperature in the storage room was pretty high), and got all over her clothes. Make sure that does not happen to you — pack all the things that can melt/spill/break in those Ziplocs.

Luggage allowance:

Wherever you are going, if you are flying, keep in mind that you are probably going to have the same weight limit on the way back. And you WILL end up coming back with much more stuff than you came with. It just happens — your luggage tends to grow in weight and size mysteriously. Just accept it as one of greatest mysteries of life. Even if you don’t plan on spending much money or doing major shopping, you will end up with lots of souvenirs, little trinkets, etc. If you’re not prepared to pay fees, underpack by the least amount of extra stuff you think you’d want to bring back.

Toiletries:

This can be tricky. In my experience, shampoos, conditioners, disposable/regular razors, and toothpaste can be replaced easily — most major brands operate globally. They might not have the same flavor of your Crest toothpaste, but it’s toothpaste it’s talking about. As long as it gets your teeth clean, it should be fine. Toiletries tend to be heavy, so it may be worth packing light, unless you have very special needs — for instance, your hair is only manageable when you us a very specific kind of conditioner, pack light. Make sure you don’t go over your liquids allowance in your carry-on. Speaking of which,

Carry-on:

I usually pack several weather-appropriate changes of clothes in my carry-on so that I would have something to wear while my luggage gets recovered if it gets lost. I had never had my luggage lost until last winter break, when it was lost twice — flying from NYC to Moscow and back. I fly quite often, so I was pretty spoiled by good service and good luck, and did not pay much attention to packing.

On the way to Moscow, I decided against bringing my jacket onboard — it was bulky and I had a bulky carry-on. It was so cold in Europe that week that luggage handlers for AirFrance decided against working (I am quite serious — this is France we are talking about), and my luggage remained in Paris, where I had a layover. So when I landed in Moscow, it was -13F (-25C); and I was wearing jeans, a V-neck sweater, and a mink stole (I am animal-friendly, but you need your fur going to Russia in the winter). At least I was wearing weather-appropriate shoes. Usually friends of family pick me up, but no one could make it that day; and on top of that, Moscow was not my final destination. Imagine how much fun that was.

On the way back, I though I was smart enough to pack some clothes in the carry on, as I usually do, but I ended up getting really busy and packing a several sweaters and no jeans. Instead of going straight to my dorm where I have a reliable wardrobe, I was staying elsewhere for several days. At least AirFrance compensated me for the shopping I had to do!

So the moral of the story is — pack some clothes in your carry-on. And if your luggage is lost, do annoy the company until they issue you a compensation.

Things that people most often forget to bring when going to study abroad:

1. An umbrella. I currently have at least one umbrella stored in various locations in five different countries because I always forget to bring one. They are usually cheap to replace and readily available, but it’s no fun to wake up on the day you are due to leave on a short-term trip during, say, orientation week, and it’s raining out, and your umbrella is somewhere across the ocean and you have no idea where to get one.

2. A pen — many, many times I have realized I packed one too far away/left it in a checked suitcase when I had to fill in customs declarations and immigrations forms. You can always borrow one from someone, and some airports provide them, but it’s nicer if you have yours.

3. Contact lenses solution. They are usually easily replaceable; I am yet to find a country where is it difficult to locate; you can even buy it in North Korea these days — at least I remember it being sold. But when you land in a new country and you are exhausted and jetlagged, last thing you want to is to go look for one. Also, make sure your contacts case is not packed away in your checked luggage along with the rest of your liquids-containing toiletries: on a long flight, you might want to take your contacts out.

4. Socks. Maybe it’s just my personal problem, but I always pack an inadequate supply of socks. Not that they are difficult to buy, but it’s annoying. Also, belts. I don’t know what it is with belts, but I had to put a special note on them in my packing list in order not to forget packing them.

5. Various accessories — scarves, hats, mittens, gloves, warm hosiery. If I am packing at the end of the summer, I always have to remind myself that the weather *will* get cold and that I should pack some things to prevent hypothermia. Almost no one I know forgets to bring sweaters and jackets, but almost no one thinks to bring all the small things that keep you warm and keep you stylish.

6. Chargers for your phone/camera/MP3 players etc – since I usually bring my laptop whenever I go, I prefer the USB chargers; they tend to be smaller and more convenient. You can get a USB charger for most everything off eBay if your original hardware didn’t come with it. But regular kinds would work, too.

7. Speaking of electronics, you might need a traveling adapter — ideally a universal kind so that you can use all over the world. Those are readily available from most supermarkets and online. I got mine five years ago from a WalMart and made heavy use of it since. You might also need a voltage adapter, too, but check if you will really need one — I never had to use one in all my travels.

8. Ear plugs and a neck pillow — I never pack either of these, but many people find them indispensable to moving around — and usually forget to bring them.

9. An MP3 player — even if you are not using  yours much at home or at school, you might want it for that long flight there and back, traveling within your host country, and listening to the music from home. If you are a hardcore pop music fan from the states, then you will hear it blasting from many loudspeakers (I saw a Britney Spears thing in North Korea, for one thing), but if you want something less commonly exported, make sure you upload it on your iPod. They are small and lightweight, and you will most likely regret not bringing one. Don’t forget a charger (see above). Having said that, you might want to find that old iPod you replaced with an iPod Touch: it’s easier to lose things (or have them stolen) while traveling.

10. Water bottle — I find that they are difficult to find in many countries, and you might want to keep one around in case you don’t trust consumer plastics (China) or you want to save money an environment by not buying bottled water and filling it from the tap (Europe).

Here are some things that you really want to bring over from home:

1. Athletic shoes — if you exercise on a regular basis or planning on doing a lot of walking around (as you probably will end up doing, even if your program is purely an academic one). They are usually more or less expensive; and your new country may not have the same brand/kind you prefer. You want something that you can climb the Great Wall in — or take a day drip to the nearby town and walk everywhere.

2. Ziplop bags — these are great for packing small things like underwear/putting your toiletries in them so that they don’t leak; you can use them while traveling in your new country — great for putting that mango in so that it doesn’t leak all over the plastic supermarket bag in came in and does not get all the contents of your overnight bag yellow. Great for putting that spare battery in so that it doesn’t run against anything metal and short-circuit. It’s funny but Ziploc bags may not be readily available in many places; I haven’t seen any in China and they are almost impossible to track down in Eastern Europe. They are light and small, so make sure to bring them in several sizes.

3. A spork (check out this wikipedia article if you are not sure what it is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spork). I have one that was bought at some Japanese (I think) novelty store around Harvard Square; it feature a spoon, a knife, and a fork.  It’s great for cutting up that papaya that your brought on a day trip for a snack; it’s useful for making oatmeal on the morning when you are in a rush and can’t go get proper breakfast. It’s small and light, but it really made my life much happier — and it saves resources.

Things that are better left at home:

1. An alarm clock — most cell phones work perfectly fine for that. In fact, I never owned one — and am still doing fine. Some mp3 players these days also have an alarm function as well. Having said that, don’t forget to pack your charger (see above), otherwise, your phone will be useless.

2. Books for leisure reading. I keep seeing people coming to study abroad with assorted reading materials; these books usually end up being left behind as you need that precious weight for souvenirs and gifts. I know someone who brought over from the US to China an illustrated book on treehouses — a fascinating read no doubt, but really big and heavy. He swears he will take it back home, but we’ll see about that. The point is — if you did not get to reading it home, you will not read it in a new and exciting place where there are things to do to get entertained. Google Books offers classic books for free, if you are comfortable with reading off the screen and urgently need to read Wuthering Heights. If you must read while living abroad, think about investing in a Kindle — expensive, but it may be easier than paying for the luggage that is too heavy. You can buy audiobooks and put them on your iPod — they are usually cheaper than hard copies, too.

The only book worth bringing is your Lonely Planet (I am waiting for them to come out with iPhone app or something). It is now available as a PDF (can be put on your laptop, netbook, or cell phone).  Books in your language can be difficult to come buy, but think about investing in audio books instead or . Many countries have ‘book cafes’ where you can read a variety of books in various languages; Beijing alone has several.

3. Hard copy of a dictionary/phrasebook. Try to get hold of an electronic version/find a suitable app on your iPhone/smart phone.  There are lots of websites that have dictionaries, too. The last time I brought a dictionary with me was in 2003 when I went to live in Germany. I never opened it once and ended up leaving it behind. To me, it’s much easier to ask someone what an unknown word means and how to use it, than to carry a heavy tome in your bag and start flipping through it when you encounter something new.

4. CD’s/DVD’s — they are bulky and will end up being lost or thrown away. Try to upload the contents on your laptop/MP3p player. Don’t risk bringing pirated ones (not that anyone should be buying them), since it can get you in trouble (on the same note, if you study in Asia and buy pirated DVD’s, don’t even try to bring them home — I know people who got in trouble with the American authorities for that).

5. Too many warm clothes if you are going to study abroad in a cold place. Sweaters take up a lot of space and can be often bought cheaply at a variety of locations (yes, even in Siberia). You will end up wanting to go shopping, so why not buy things that can actually be useful?

6. Hiking boots –I got to see many a pair of hiking boots that people bring thinking that they will need them while studying in Europe. Usual running shoes usually do unless you are going to be climbing the Everest. Seriously — they are heavy and take up space and you might be inclined to leave them behind on the way back to save up space, so don’t waste money by bringing them over (of course, if your orientation packet specifies bringing them, then do).

7. Special fancy travel gear that you don’t use at home — don’t go invest in that Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket if it is not your style and you never wear it at home. You will probably want to look stylish and blend in with the local population, and most regular clothes can keep you warm and comfortable in a big city on your way to class (which is where most study abroad programs usually are). It might be a tempting idea to invest in something cool and high-tech, feeling like a world traveler — but that’s not necessary and can end up being expensive.

Some more pointers (most travelers know this, but hey, it’s worth going over it again) — things that are useful to bring:

1. Vitamins — they might be expensive in some countries. No matter where you go, traveling is exhausting, so a good multivitamin may be a good idea.

2. Imodium/antihistamines/Dramamine/bandaids/other first-aid remedies. I remember getting really motion-sick in Azerbaijan; having forgotten my Dramamine, I asked a local friend to take me to the pharmacy; it turned out there was no motion sickness medication in the entire country of Azerbaijan. This did not make for a nice trip, since moving everywhere required going by car. Antihistamines may be a good idea for countries like China where the pollution level is high; if you ever had an allergic reaction to anything, make sure you bring Claritin or something similar — you don’t want to get allergic reaction to some intriguing fruit in Thailand and have to spend several hours at a remote area looking for an antihistamine instead of going to the beach (true story). Think about your specific needs — if you ever had an allergic reaction to a mosquito, you will end up in a hotel room during an orientation week with the worse itch. Don’t bring too many medications. If you sometimes get colds when you are stressed, you will end up getting one from all the air-conditioning and hot air outside your first week in China — and you might want to have something from home rather than some Chinese herbs a local pharmacists advise (not that herbs are bad, but I just feel that proper Western medication can be more efficient, if for placebo effect alone). While I am on this subject, some sort of pill organizer might be useful, but I like keeping the original cardboard package — it might be useful should you wish to replenish your supply or ward off suspicious border guards.

3. If you are taking any prescription drugs, bring a necessary supply — and some more, just in case something gets lost or damaged. And don’t forget the prescriptions in case the border officers get annoying about your medications or you end up needing to get more in your host country. If you are taking something absolutely necessary for your life quality and going on a short  trip, bring a supply that is enough to last for the duration of your trip plus several more days. A friend once got stuck in Thailand during the tsunami; she did not bring enough of her diabetes medication, so she ended up with some very serious health issues.(If you ever leave your prescription medication behind, you can always Wikipedia it and get the other names under which it may be known; chances are, your drug may have a completely different name in a different country).

4. The best packing advice I have ever heard for long-term traveling was to make a list of the things you use as you go through the day: say, you wake up, wash your face, and brush your teeth — put , face wash, toothpaste, and toothbrush on your list. After you are done with the list, go through it and eliminate things that you might leave home. Then save it on your computer — for later use.

5. Make sure your cell phone will work in a new country. Most fancy phones these days will work everywhere, but it’s good to check. You can buy a cheap cell phone in most places, but you might want your own phone, if not for calling people, but for listening to the music, or using applications on it.

6. Bring some wet tissues and hand sanitizer. I personally never bother with the sanitizer, but wet tissues come in handy when you are on a plane drinking coffee and it suddenly gets into turbulence. Paper tissues are good to have, too.

7. Make a good color scan of your passport/visa and email it to yourself with a subject line that is easy to search for. Paper copies are nice for emergencies, too, but a scan saved online will stay there for many more travels, and can be used should you use your passport and have to go to your embassy. Bring warranty information for your electronics, too.

8. Female hygiene products. Pads are available everywhere, but many countries are rumored to have tampons in short supply. My orientation packet for study abroad in China said that — and I can tell you at least three store chains where they are available, but that’s in Beijing. Chinese villages may not have them. Since they are small and lightweight, it might be easier to bring them from home.

Freedom to do What?

On a Wednesday, my teachers announced they had cancelled our weekly Friday test, and instead of having a dictation the next day, we were going to relax and discuss American and Chinese education systems with our Chinese roommates.
For three weeks before that, my weekdays have been pretty monotonous. Get up at 7am, make coffee, study for daily dictation, go to class at 8:30am; have two classes, then get a 20minute long break at 10:20, get a snack; have two more classes, get out at 12:30pm, have lunch at the cafeteria, then have an individual session with a teacher; go to the gym, shower,  take a nap; get some fruit/eat out at 6pm, go to the office hours at 7pm; start doing homework around 8pm, either at the dorm or a coffee house, then go to bed around midnight. There are daily dictations and weekly exams, and a whole lot of hw, consisting of as much at 90 characters to memorize a day.
So on that Wednesday, I had just  one piece of homework and no characters to memorize. At 5pm, I found myself confused in my dorm room. I had gone to the gym, showered, tidied up my room, did laundry, and went fruit-shopping.  This had exhausted my list of potential activities. We are located sort of in the middle of nowhere in Beijing, and  When you have been told what to do even for a short period of time, it seems very difficult to go back to my usual Yale mode, where I can always mix and match and choose and improvise.
This reminded me of the way Russians who study abroad often feel: they have too much freedom, and they don’t necessarily like it.
Several Russian friends had been accepted to American colleges after many years of hard work at school, numerous English classes, grueling language and aptitude tests, and a long application process . But when they enrolled, they hated their experience. The schools were good and foreign student-friendly, and there was staff on hand to advise them on their issues, but they said they didn’t know what to do with “all that freedom.”
In Russia and many Post-Soviet Bloc, the education system makes decisions for you. You can’t choose classes in primary, middle, or high school (maybe a language if you are lucky, but the choice mostly varies between English and German). When you go to college, it tells you what exams to take for a specific major you are applying for. Once you have enrolled, it’s virtually impossible to change your major. Your colleges decides what classes you will be taking, and issues you a schedule upon beginning every semester. Moreover, you usually don’t get to decide what your thesis or term papers are going to be about; your professors do it for you. If you are a part of the Western education system, this description sounds like –um, a Russian boot camp? But most Russian students never really complain; they are used to the system and accept it the way it is.
China has a very similar education system, and I strongly suspect many Chinese students face similar problems in Western universities. Freedom of choice can be daunting. When you suddenly have to make your own decisions, how do you do it? In Russia, students often enter college at around 17 or 18, and many simply don’t know what major to choose, so their parents make decisions for them.
“Why don’t you go be an engineer? They can always get jobs. I know you like writing, but that’s never going to make money.” — I have witnessed countless conversations like this in Eastern Europe. Many end up with jobs that don’t match their interests and personality, but some do, so the system works somehow. Mostly no one complains.
Have you noticed that many Eastern European students in the US liberal arts schools stick to majors like chemistry, math, computer science, economics, biology, etc. They tend to go for majors that have a very defined core curriculum and a more or less obvious post-graduation career path. That’s what happens when you are not used to the liberal arts system of studying a little bit of this, a little bit of that, and settling for a job that is probably not even related to your political science major.
It’s very different in China. It seems that one of the reasons why Communism became such a successful ideology in China is the way society functions here. Historically, there  have been many rules in places that guard intersocietal interactions. If you are a woman, you were expected to obey, in turn, your father, your husband, and your son; you were supposed to give birth to many sons. As a man, you were supposed to get married and bring your wife to live with your family. I am not going to go on a Chinese studies lecture here, but these rules have always been much more clearly defined and much more often followed than, say, Western societal behavior standards. Many of these rules have now disintegrated or at least weakened, but the society is still very much ready to follow someone’s lead. You can’t really pull that trick on the Americans or Western Europeans.
Now, there is something about Russian culture that lends itself to a similar situation. I still can’t put my finger on it, but Russians are very comfortable with having a strong, paternal figure leading the nation — and essentially telling them what to do and what to think. It seems to go against all the teachings of Western political philosophers, so when I am in the US, I am always baffled to comprehend it, since the Western liberal arts tradition affects my thinking, but when I am in Russia, that question disappears. The situation and the way people accept it seems to be very natural.  Russians feel comfortable having a leader who has a strong opinion on what needs to be done; and to have a lot of freedom — in the Western, democratic sense of the world — means stepping out of that comfort zone. This is why Russians do not understand why the rest of the world criticizes their government for being authoritarian. If one doesn’t want freedom, why complain about lacking it?
The families of Russian journalists who were murdered after investigating sensitive topics complain about the lack of the freedom of speech that results in democratic freedoms being limited. But average Russians is not affected by that; they gladly let the government guide their opinion on foreign affairs.
The New York Times recently had a feature on the Chinese equivalent of the SATs — the gao kao (高考. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/13/world/asia/13exam.html?scp=1&sq=gao%20kao&st=cse
When I read the article, I thought the gao kao was a terrible system.  In China, you don’t get any choice while applying to college: if you want to go to a good college, your sole option is to put in hundreds of hours of studying time and to hope that others have studied less than you.
The American system seemed much more superior. While applying, you do need to take some exam  — the SAT’s and the SAT Subject Tests, but you also need to submit essays and recommendations. And some colleges don’t even require SAT’s anymore. You get more freedom that way, right? Theoretically, you can get into any college just because of your interesting life. Ideally, in high school, you are free to choose volunteering over frequenting the library — and you can still go to great school. Even if you don’t go to brand-name school, you can still get a great education and have an amazing career. If you do go to a famous school, you can probably drop out halfway through and become a billionaire. You are free to make your own choices.
What strikes me about China is that no one seems to mind what Westerners deem to be the terrible lack of freedom.
I always thought that the poor, oppressed Chinese masses are so very sad over banned YouTube and Wikipedia — and now Facebook and Twitter — and are dying to get to use them. So here I am in China, with Yale’s VPN access that allows me to freely use said services, and no one else wants to take advantage of that. I spotted a YouTube-enabled camera at the store and asked my roommate if she knew what it was; she did. Would she like to use it on my laptop, I asked. Nah, she said, she can get most of the videos she wants to watch off of Chinese YouTube substitutes (with content carefully screened and censored, of course).
I don’t know if it’s my rebellious personality or the Western ideals of having access to whatever information we please, but if It were me, I would be on YouTube 24/7 in China. Just to get the government angry and express my protest.
In the USSR, the government banned many books, but many people copied them by hand and secretly passed copies around. My parents claim that over 95% of their friends (not a very reactionary crowd, to be honest) had read all the banned authors weeks before they were banned. The government was of course unhappy, but it’s difficult to control was every household is reading.
I always thought that in China, with its 1.5-strong population, the government would find it much harder to control these things; also, with the new technologies, a VPN access or a basic proxy service would easily provide one with access to everything that the government is trying to hide. I was half-expecting engaging in heated discussions with the locals on Wikipedia articles that go against the Party’s ideology or The Secret Life of Chairman Mao. But no one really is discussing them, or even interested in discussing them. Well, I am sure there are some people who are, but there are obviously not many of them.
And no one minds the gao kao, either. Most people who have been through are quick to criticize it, but I personally complain about the SAT’s more than most Chinese students complain about the gao kao.  I got to hear some complains about the education system, but if you read the Yale Daily News or any other college newspaper, you come across much more criticism.
I used to think locals were reluctant to criticize anything government-imposed, but there is a lot of government criticism present, although it’s really mellow. I can see why the political apathy would be predominant over here. In the USSR, countless political education classes and meetings and memorizing valuable Communist works made many hate the politics; but their hatred had a direction. People told jokes making fun of the leaders and made fun of the newspapers’ empty mottos. This dissatisfaction with the government facilitated the collapse of the USSR.
But here, it’s often apathy through and through. I haven’t met that many Chinese, but among many people my age there was only one who was interested in politics; and that was limited to claiming that that Taiwan belongs to China. And most young people are much more interested in contemplating schemes to import iPhones into China than in answering questions about Chinese politics that I have to ask the locals for my homework.  After all, why care about elusive freedom if you can be a satisfied consumer?
And yet, the YouTube app on those black market iPhones doesn’t work. No one minds; they just install the Chinese YouTube analogue app that does.

On a Wednesday, my teachers announced they had canceled our weekly Friday test, and instead of having our usual dictation the next day, we were going to discuss American and Chinese education systems with our Chinese roommates.

For three weeks before that, my weekdays have been pretty monotonous: Get up at 7am, make coffee, study for daily dictation, go to class at 8:30; have two classes, have a long break at 10:20, get a snack; have two more classes, get out at 12:30pm, have lunch at the cafeteria, have an individual session with a teacher; go to the gym, shower,  take a nap; get some fruit/eat out at 6pm, go to the office hours at 7pm; start doing homework around 8pm, go to bed around midnight.

But on that Wednesday, I had just one page worth of homework. At 5pm, I found myself very confused. I had gone to the gym, showered, tidied up my room, did laundry, and gone fruit-shopping.  I had exhausted my list of potential activities. My campus is far from the more exciting locales of Beijing, so going out to, say, shop is a almost a day trip. As I pondered my entertainment options, I realized that it was the first time I did not know what to do with my free time in this new, exciting city. For three weeks straight, I was given an inflexible schedule, and I was used to that. When you have been told what to do even for a short period of time, it seems very difficult to start making one’s own decisions all of a sudden.

This reminded me of the way Russians who study abroad often feel: they have too much freedom, and they often don’t like it.

Several Russian friends had been accepted to American colleges after many years of hard work at school, numerous English classes after school, grueling language and aptitude tests, and a long application process. But when they enrolled, they hated every day of it. Their schools had great facilities, friendly professors, and useful international student advisers; but my friends still didn’t know what to do with “all that freedom.”

In Russia and many Eastern European countries, the education system makes decisions for you. You cannot choose classes at any point in school (maybe a  foreign language if you are lucky, but the choice mostly varies between English and German). When you go to college, you are told what exams to take for the major for which you are applying. It’s virtually impossible to change your major after passing the entrance exam. Your college will then decide what classes you will be taking, and when you will be taking them. You professors tell you on what subjects to write your term papers. If you are a part of the Western education system, this description sounds like –um, a Russian boot camp? But you don’t see many Russian students complaining; they are used to the system and accept it the way it is.

China has a very similar education system, and I strongly suspect many Chinese students face similar problems when going to a Western-style university.

Freedom of choice can be daunting. When you — all of a sudden — have to make your own decisions, how do you do it? In Russia, students often enter college when they are 17 or 18, and many do not have distinct academic interests yet, so their parents choose their major and school and more for them.

“Why don’t you study engineering and become an engineer? They can always get jobs. I know you like writing, but that’s never going to make money.” — I have witnessed countless conversations like this in Eastern Europe. Many college graduates end up with jobs that don’t match their interests and personality, but some do, so the system is working. Mostly no one complains.

Have you noticed that many Eastern European students in the US liberal arts schools stick to majors like chemistry, math, computer science, economics, and biology? They tend to go for majors that have a very defined core curriculum and a more or less obvious post-graduation career path. That’s what happens when you are not used to the liberal arts system of studying a little bit of this, a little bit of that, and settling for a job that is probably not even related to your political science major.

It’s very different in China. It seems that Communism became such a successful ideology in China partly because the society there is used to obeying the authority. Historically, there  have been many rules in places that guard intersocietal interactions. If you are a woman, you were expected to obey, in turn, your father, your husband, and your son, and you were supposed to give birth to many sons. As a man, you were supposed to get married and bring your wife to live with your family. I am not going to deliver a Chinese studies lecture here, but these rules have always been much more clearly defined and much more often followed than, say, Western societal behavior standards. Many of these rules have now disintegrated or at least weakened, but the society is still very much ready to follow someone’s lead. You can’t really pull that trick on the Americans or Western Europeans.

Now, there is something about Russian culture that lends itself to a similar situation. I still can’t put my finger on it, but Russians are very comfortable with having a strong, paternal figure leading the nation — and essentially telling them what to do and what to think. It seems to go against all the teachings of Western political philosophers, so when I am in the US, I am always baffled to comprehend it, since the Western liberal arts tradition affects my thinking, but when I am in Russia, that question disappears. The situation and the way people accept it seems to be very natural.  Russians feel comfortable having a leader who has a strong opinion on what needs to be done; and to have a lot of freedom — in the Western, democratic sense of the world — means stepping out of that comfort zone. This is why Russians do not understand why the rest of the world criticizes their government for being authoritarian. If one doesn’t want freedom, why complain about lacking it?

The families of Russian journalists who were murdered after investigating sensitive topics complain about the lack of freedom of speech that results in democratic freedoms being limited. But average Russians are not affected by that; they gladly let the government guide their opinion on foreign affairs.

The New York Times recently had a feature on the Chinese equivalent of the SATs — the gao kao (高考).

When I read that article, I thought the gao kao was a terrible system.  In China, you don’t get any choice while applying to college: if you want to go to a good college, your sole option is to put in hundreds of hours of studying time and to hope that others have studied less than you.

The American system seemed much more superior. While applying, you do need to take some exam  — the SAT’s and the SAT Subject Tests, but you also need to submit essays and recommendations. And some colleges don’t even require SAT’s anymore. You get more freedom that way, right? Theoretically, you can get into any college just because of your interesting life. Ideally, in high school, you are free to choose volunteering over frequenting the library — and you can still go to great school. Even if you don’t go to brand-name school, you can still get a great education and have an amazing career. If you do go to a famous school, you can probably drop out halfway through and become a billionaire. You are free to make your own choices.

What strikes me about China is that no one seems to mind what Westerners deem to be the terrible lack of freedom.

I always thought that the poor, oppressed Chinese masses are so very sad over banned YouTube and Wikipedia — and now Facebook and Twitter — and are dying to get to use them. So here I am in China, with Yale’s VPN access that allows me to freely use said services, and no one else wants to take advantage of that. I spotted a YouTube-enabled camera at the store and asked my roommate if she knew what it was; she did. Would she like to use it on my laptop, I asked. Nah, she said, she can get most of the videos she wants to watch off of Chinese YouTube substitutes (with content carefully screened and censored, of course).

I don’t know if it’s my rebellious personality or the Western ideals of having access to whatever information we please, but if It were me, I would be on YouTube 24/7 in China. Just to get the government angry and express my protest.

In the USSR, the government banned many books, but many people copied them by hand and secretly passed copies around. My parents claim that over 95% of their friends (not a very reactionary crowd, to be honest) had read all the banned authors weeks before they were banned. The government was of course unhappy, but it’s difficult to control was every household is reading.

I always thought that in China, with its 1.5-billon-strong population, the government would find it much harder to control these things; also, with the new technologies, a VPN access or a basic proxy service would easily provide one with access to everything that the government is trying to hide. I was half-expecting engaging in heated discussions with the locals on Wikipedia articles that go against the Party’s ideology or The Secret Life of Chairman Mao. But no one is really discussing them, or even interested in discussing them. Well, I am sure there are some people who are, but they are either few in number or mostly invisible.

And no one minds the gao kao, either. Most people who have been through are quick to criticize it, but I personally complain about the SAT’s more than most Chinese students complain about the gao kao.  I got to hear some complains about the education system, but if you read The Yale Daily News or any other college newspaper, you come across much more criticism.

I used to think locals were reluctant to criticize anything government-imposed, but there is a lot of government criticism present, although it’s really mellow. I can see why the political apathy would be predominant over here. In the USSR, countless political education classes and meetings and memorizing valuable Communist works made many hate the politics; but their hatred had a direction. People told jokes making fun of the leaders and made fun of the newspapers’ empty mottos. This dissatisfaction with the government facilitated the collapse of the USSR.

But here, it’s often apathy through and through. I haven’t met that many Chinese, but among many people my age there was only one who was interested in politics; and that was limited to claiming that that Taiwan belongs to China. And most young people are much more interested in contemplating schemes to import iPhones into China than in answering questions about Chinese politics that I have to ask the locals for my homework.  After all, why care about elusive freedom if you can be a satisfied consumer?

The YouTube app on those black market iPhones doesn’t work. No one minds; they just install the Chinese YouTube analogue app that does.

Sinful in All Kind of Ways: Encounters with Orthodox Christianity

I recently discovered that I am doomed to face a fiery eternity in hell for doing yoga. I used to think I was a good person– as a regular college student, I’m no saint, but I hadn’t thought of myself as a particularly bad sinner. Until a week ago, I thought I belonged, at worst, in purgatory. That was all before I went to an Orthodox Christian monastery and learned just how terrible a person I truly am in the eyes of God.

A classic Ukrainian Orthodox cathedral

First, a little background about my personal religious history. Being agnostic has always tempered my encounters with religion. I had a chance to experience many religions in the places where I have lived, but I took them all with a grain of salt. I went to a Buddhist monastery in a high rise building in Hong Kong; I listened to an organ in the German church were Johann Bach worked; I gave food to Buddhist monks in a traditional Thai ritual; I debated role of women with my Muslim friends, and went to a Baptist sermon in the US South.

The only religion I have always been obsessively fleeing is Orthodox Christianity — the religion to which I supposedly belong.

I was baptized when I was three. Most Russian parents, religious and secular alike, follow that tradition. Many people in my generation feel that baptizing unsuspecting children is a violation of their human rights. It always made me angry to know that when I was an infant, some bearded man immersed me in water three times in the name of Holy Trinity  — without asking for my consent. It could have been worse (think recent and not so recent sexual abuse scandals in another prominent religion), but it’s of no comfort to me. Ever since I was old enough to realize that I was forced into a religion, I have despised all things Orthodox Christian.

At my baptism, I was given a cross, which was misplaced several years later. I don’t know if I have any godparents and don’t have any intention of finding out. I don’t know where I was baptized. I’ve never read the Bible, although I have read most of the Koran, some of the Torah and various Buddhist manuscripts.

It has always been that way: I never got along with the predominant religion in my part of Russia. Save for a few weddings and funerals, which are usually performed at churches, even for non-believers, I have been inside a church only a few times, mostly on tours while traveling.  Most of my post-USSR Christian friends are non-believers, so I never had a chance to learn about any positive aspects of Christianity, like spiritual betterment. Instead, my friends told me truly terrible stories about going to church for the very first time in attempts to seek guidance: the priests simply yelled at them for being sinners who could not be saved. I did hear stories about great, nice, friendly and supportive Russian Orthodox priests, but they appear to be legendary, mythical creatures who live in the Land of Faraway.

Returning to the story of how I learned of my brimstone-filled-fate: I was bored to death on a weekend at a spa in Western Ukraine. There was a state of emergency in place in the region, so I could only go visit a few places — most bridges were washed away and the roads were destroyed. The Internet wasn’t working, and I’d I left my laptop in Kiev besides. The only tour available was to a major monastery, a very important place for any Orthodox Christian.

It was meant to be a religion-oriented tour — a pilgrimage of sorts. I always reckoned that sort of thing is done via climbing uphill barefoot while observing lent.  Instead it was done aboard an air-conditioned bus. However, women in attendance were required to dress as “proper Christians.” I used to have a Muslim roommate who looked very fashionable in a headscarf, but I can’t pull it off. To worsen the situation, I had to team it up with a very long skirt. Upon entering the church’s premises, an armed guard informed me that a proper Christian woman is not allowed to wear makeup, dye her hair or get manicures/pedicures. With my mascara, highlights, and red finger-and-toe-nails, I wasn’t off to an auspicious start.

While the rest of religion tourists  crowded inside a church, I sat outside the cathedral in a headscarf with my knitting, feeling my most decent and modest ever. What naiveté — a female passerby began yelling at me. Knitting on a Sunday turned out to be a sin. I wondered if yelling at non-believers is one, too?

I can decipher that woman’s anger. Her and I are hell-bound for just being female. Testosterone  is clearly the hormone of choice in Orthodox Christianity. Women can’t be priests. Menstruating women are considered “dirty” and are not allowed inside a church, because they will “contaminate” it.  All forms of contraception are prohibited, which means a woman has no control over how many children to have. We must be a nation of masochists, for despite these sexist rules the vast majority of church-goers that day were women.

I worsened my sinfulness by refusing to kiss two glass boxes filled with the mummified remains of two saints.  I always liked the Egyptian section in museums, but it never occurred to me to kiss the glass boxes with the mummies. So why do that in a church?Kissing icons is a very old Orthodox tradition designed to venerate the deity or saints portrayed on them. It might be life-transforming, but it’s also unhygienic, unless the supposed sanctity kills all bacteria and viruses. I didn’t care if it was God’s will, science, or the elements that saved the bodies from rotting — I had no intention of touching the glass with the saliva of thousands of fanatics. When I turned around to escape, a priest nearby proclaimed I would burn in hell. Strike three.

His threats didn’t bother me. By that time, I was quite convinced I was bound not only to burn, but to slowly deep-fried and simmer. You see, I had discovered a startling list of rather unconventional sins posted on the church wall. Alongside the ten commandments and DUI, there were some that were new to me, including but not limited to…
* practicing yoga
* martial arts
* taking contrast showers
* and of course, giving human names to pets

My soul thus doomed to an eternity of hellfire, I headed back to the spa for my sinful massages and yoga.

Shopping in Kiev: Ukrainian Wives and iPhones

As I was walking down Kreschatik, Kiev’s main street, I saw a billboard in English that targets foreign men.

Conveniently for visiting foreign men who fell prey to Ukrainian women’s charms, you can now get a Ukrainian wife while doing sightseeing. The company’s office is right there, on Kreschatik, so you can quickly get a brand-new wife, a “fast visa,” and then keep exploring Kiev. For those who want to accessorize their newly acquired wives, iPhones are sold two or three buildings down from the billboard. By the way, iPhones are not officially sold in Ukraine, but the store doesn’t seem to care, openly selling them on Kreschatik for three times the US price.

I wonder how much Ukrainian women are worth these days. I was really tempted to call Joe, the “American manager” of the Ukrainian wives, but I can’t pull off sounding like a man. My boyfriend refused to partake in this. Anyone wants to give me a hand?

“Russian Seasons” at JFK — the Russian Interns Are Coming!

I blogged several times about the complexity of Russian Women — Western men relationships. I wrote about the mail-order Russian bride websites; I made fun of the scammers who rip off Western men looking for such a bride; and I wrote how these societal trends make some Russian women, including myself, uncomfortable when they are abroad. To get an outsider’s perspective (which, surprisingly, turned into an insider’s perspective), I asked my dear friend Arnie Zambrano to write a guest post for me. I know he is interested in finding an Eastern European soulmate. Over a course of a recent MSN conversation, his “Russian Intern Season” at JFK (which is where I actually met him) came up. So here’s what he has to say:

(please note — I may not agree with the author’s opinion (especially about the Ukrainians :)) ), I asked Arnie to write it as his personal opinion on an interesting phenomenon).

Arnie With Two Eastern European Interns

Every year around June, I anticipate the hoards of pretty Eastern European girls who will come through the gates of JFK. To see them makes me truly happy that I work for an international airline and get to spend time at an international terminal. Even though I’ve been working in JFK for 3 years, every year, I still look forward to the Russian Intern Season as much as a child anticipates Christmas.

So what is the Russian Intern Season?

It’s the time when Russians and other Eastern Europeans send many 18-24 year old girls to the United States to work here for 3-9 months. Thanks to an agreement with the United States and Eastern Europe, CCUSA (Camp Counselors USA) hand-picks (or so the rumor has it) only the best looking women out there (some men participate, too, but I am not interested) to work in the US. They work as camp counselors — or work other similar jobs. For over 90% of them, it’s their first time in the states (and even abroad), so these young ladies are looking for a friend to get them oriented. That’s where I come in.

I’m the pioneer of my personal Russian Intern Season (RIS) at JFK. The young post-Soviet ladies flock to the specially organized JFK’s CCUSA’s desk. For the first 3-5 days, they are free to do whatever they please, so here’s your (and mine) chance to charm a pretty Eastern European!

I started the RIS when I got sick and tired of American women (I’m American, but find our women too arrogant high maintenance — compared to the Eastern European ladies). It’s simply standing at the carousels (after I do my job for an airline, of course) and having to pick the most amazingly looking girl in the intern group. At times it’s so hard, since there are so many great ones to choose from. Most of them are Russian, but there are also Ukrainians, Moldovians, Armenians, Georgians, Kazakhstan, Belarusians etc. And I am the first American man they can talk to. You can’t get more “fresh off the boat” than that.

Why do I like these Eastern European ladies so much? Unlike American women, they don’t ask to take them to expensive restaurant or to take them shopping! Perfect date material.

It is remarkable how you can identify a nationality of an Eastern European female by the way she talks to you. And no, I don’t mean an accent. Here’s my personal classification:

–Ukrainians: Wear Blue T-shirts. When you start a conversation with them, they look at you in a confused manner. [Note from Anna — as a half-Ukrainian myself, I find it hard to believe, but oh well].

–Russians: Wear red T-shirts. When start a conversation with them, most of them give you that nice warm smile; they generally have so many interesting things to say. Overall they are very glad that you are talking to them no matter the situation.

–This year, however, the new hot thing are the Kazakhstanis (T-shirt color: orange). They are brought over here by boatful, and I love spending time with them. It definitely makes after work hours and my days off much more entertaining.

Any Ukrainian reading this post is probably thinking “Why does this author hate Ukrainians?” I know there are some nice ones out there. I personally have been lucky to meet a select few. But it seems that they’re keeping all the nice and sweet ones in Ukraine. (Guess the Ukrainian guys want to keep their nice women for themselves — good for them). Unfortunately, so far, I haven’t had any luck in meeting a nice Ukrainian intern. So I stay away from the blue-clad crowd.

Most of the girls don’t stay in NYC for too long; some of them are here for only one or two days. Then they go off to their respective workplaces, which could be as close as Ocean City, NJ (3 hour drive from New York) to San Diego, CA (6 hour plane ride). But for an adventurer like me that’s what makes it more entertaining. I met a couple of Kazakh girls and spent a couple of days with them before they went off to Los Angeles, CA. I was planning on going to LA in a 3 weeks time anyway. Now I have someone with whom to hang out over there (in case you’re wondering how I can afford to travel, working for an airline gets one cheap or even free flights).

I will most likely end up marrying a sweet Russian girl, but she has to be a Russian-Russian, not a Russian-American. I can’t stand Russian-American women. They are aware of how Eastern Europeanly beautiful they are, plus they’re extra snobby, since they were born in the US. My Russian-American co-worker is a perfect example. She manipulates all the guys in doing favors for her, makes them spend money on gifts, and, simply put, walks all over them. (She even admitted that she made my friend, who is blindly in love with her buy, her a Prada handbag… and they were not even dating!!) On the other hand her Russian mom also lives in the US. Being born in Russia, she’s such a great person. I am not attracted to her (not my age category, really), but if I had a choice between a Russian-American daughter and her Russian mom, I’d go for the latter. I am worried that if I marry a Russian, which is want I really want to do, my children will be the product of the same thing I hate!

Sometimes, I look at the Russian Brides websites, and I can’t help but laugh at all these ridiculous fees that they add on just to talk to her and see a picture. You even have to pay anywhere from $1000-$5000 to have her sent to the USA. If I were someone looking for a Russian Bride, I wouldn’t need to go further than JFK. Just stand outside the international terminal during the Russian Intern Season — and have your pick. Most of them are extra friendly, but good luck with the blue-wearing Ukrainians. (On a side note, if you’re on the internet all day looking for Russian Brides, get a life!)

By the way, if you for some reason are not attracted to the Eastern-European looks, there is also my Brazilian Intern Season. Lots of (hot) Brazilians come from Disney World to go shopping in New York. Sadly, only few speak English, but with my knowledge of Spanish, English, French and Italian, I can pick up a great percentage of what they’re saying. To anyone else, you’re out of luck.

I’m off taking a Russian girl to Coney Island, thank you CCUSA 😀

Russian Yalie Encounters Disheartening Welcome at Russian Immigration

I have been in Russia for a while, busy re-uniting with the family and long-lost friends. I was supposed to have an internship in Hong Kong this summer, but things got immensely messed up (more venting on my part will come in a much more detailed post later), so for the next month I am a correspondent of a local newspaper, a TV anchor and a host of my own TV show (a little one, but still, a real one). Things are keeping me busy, so I don’t really have time to blog, but here is an interesting observation about Russia.

If a holder of an American passport or a Green Card flies into the US, they go through customs much faster than all those unlucky visa holders. The queues are always shorter, there seem to be more immigration officers on hand, and the smiles they dispense at the citizens are always nicer (NB: my personal observation, not a documented fact). If you enter Hong Kong with a permanent resident card, you just swipe the said card through a terminal — an voila, welcome home. This trend in general is true for the rest of the world — except for Russia.

Entering the Russian Federation is much easier for the foreigners than for the citizens of the Russian Federation. I was flying into Pulkovo-2 (international abbreviation LED) — an airport in St. Petersburg, which is dominated by the Russians returning from their European vacations. There are only two immigration booths for the Russians, while there were four or five for the foreigners.

The extremely unfriendly, sulking immigration officer (by the way, the ones working with the foreigner did smile at them; I tried taking a picture to prove, but was yelled at by the local security agents) went through an extensive number of visas in my passport and muttered something like, “why the f*** do you travel so much” (quoted verbatim, translation mine). She asked me how I “dared studying at the foreign university.” (because Moscow State is so much better than Yale, of course!) Then she asked me why my traveling passport looks worn-out. (because I travel a lot? An obvious answer). Then she finally — and very reluctantly — let me into my own country. I didn’t know if I should show extreme gratitude I was reluctantly allowed into my motherland — that’s what their demeanor suggested.

Welcome home, I guess.

PS: Apparently, Russia is actually one country with Belarus — or at least a union with it, according to the sign above the immigration booth at Pulkovo-2.

The Joys of Obtaining a Russian Visa

Are you craving adrenaline? Are you looking for challenges? Are you willing to explore the unknown? Apply for a Russian visa.

Throughout my life, I have had to deal with all sorts of visas. I signed papers with a promise that I am not a journalist for a North Korean one ; I certified that I would not do anything newsworthy for a Chinese one (I am still not sure what they meant by it); I went through the fingerprint scanning process for the US one and filled out the 18 page long Hong Kong trainee visa application. One visa that I have never had to get is a Russian one. Lucky me.

When my boyfriend decided to brave the Russian winter, I thought getting a visa would be a bureaucratic, yet civilized procedure, just as everywhere else (yes, including North Korea!) . What naiveté. Applying
for his visa made me consider it a survivor test: only the strongest get to go to Russia.

There are two basic visa options for those who wish to visit Russia. It can be a home stay visa, for those who wish to stay with their Russian friends. There is also a regular tourist kind. Both of them require a
tourist to obtain an “invitation” and to submit it along with his/her application.

An invitation for a home stay visa is almost impossible to get. An inviting party has to have a local branch of the department of visas and registration approve their invitation. The wannabe hosts are asked to submit a prove of their income (for only the rich people should be hosting foreigners); I heard of police officers turning up at their houses to check what they looked like (so that a foreign guest would not be offended by less than luxurious living conditions). The entire procedure is said to take 45 days, but it can last for two or so months. The department’s offices are usually located only in larger cities, so if one’s hosts live in a village, they will have to endure a lot of travel.

Getting an invitation for a tourist visa is tricky in a different way. In theory, one is supposed to book a hotel online; then the hotel issues an invitation. But booking a Russian hotel online proves challenging even for a Russian-speaker: the transactions don’t always go through and the websites are difficult to navigate . Those who do not happen to have any Russian-speaking friends by their side have to resort to using several overpriced websites in bad English. If you master the process, however, there is yet another challenge: not all hotels are allowed to issue invitations. But no worries: if you wish to stay at a nice private hotel (which are oftentimes much better than the government-approved old-school ones), you can still obtain your
invitation from a Russian tourist agency that will issue it in the name of a government-friendly hotel. It is just that I haven’t found any which have any forms of online payment available.

I had my friend in Moscow obtain an invitation from a tourist agency, pay cash, and e-mail me the invitation. The embassies do not accept “copies of the invitations,” and an attached Microsoft Word document is considered more “original” than a faxed copy. And here comes another challenge: Once you have an invitation and a filled out application form, you have to pay the application processing fee.

There are only two ways to pay for obtaining one’s visa: money order or cashier’s check, so a trip to a local post office/bank rather than writing a personal check is required. Most countries’ embassies I have dealt with are perfectly happy to accept personal checks – or cash. I guess we Russians are just way too cool for that.

Got that money order? Go mail it off. Oh wait, no so fast…

The websites for the embassy in D.C. and the consulate in NYC provided us with contradicting address information. When we called the consulate, they did not seem to know enough English, so I had to talk to
them. I did not mind, but they kept telling me they did not know anything (because, you know, the consulate is there to host Russian-themed parties, not to advise those few foolish Americans seeking to

visit Russia). They told me to call a number in D.C. that I had never reached even though I had been trying for three days straight (it seemed that nobody bothered picking up).

It was only after my boyfriend got his visa that I made an important discovery. Like all other things Russian, there is a shortcut that is paved with money . If you pay a US-based tourist company $60 or so, they will issue the invitation right away. For additional $30, they will register you (another bothersome formality) in Moscow/St. Petersburg without ever asking where you are really staying. A Yale professor who often goes to Russia promised to hook me up with a really nice deal: a DC-based agency that is trustworthy, friendly and efficient. So if anybody needs the information, drop me a line.

One thing bothers me: I am not still not sure all these agencies are legal. They cheat the system and provide the immigration authorities with false information. Surprisingly, the government is perfectly aware of their activities and does not seem to mind. Neither do immigration officers. According to a Russian lawyer friend, these agencies are not legal – but they are not illegal, either, like so many things in a country with a flawed legal system. So if you are persistent enough to do extensive research and stubborn enough to obtain the
paperwork and have some money, welcome to Russia.

Just one thing: recently the Ukraine announced that the EU and US residents can visit it visa-free. The Ukraine has all that Russia has to offer – similar architecture, similar language, similar national cuisine – only more democracy and a warmer climate. The tickets to the Ukraine are priced at an amount similar to those to Russia. So really, if you want to spare yourself the bureaucratic trouble and enjoy Eastern Europe, go for Kiev, not Moscow.

Hot and Sexually Harassed: A Russian Woman Abroad

I saw a new issue of “Playboy” today. I wasn’t looking for one (fake-breasted naked airbrushed females are not really my type), but the 18+ magazines were closest to the entrance of the store where I was hoping to get my daily fix of chocolate . The cover boasted of pictures of 16 hot Russians inside. A couple of other glossy magazines had photographs and headings involving (somewhat dressed) Russian models. So is Russian the new hot?

When I travel, I often experience a strange dichotomy surrounding Russian women. We are supposed to be hot, but easy. Put another way, we are supposed to be hot, but ready to sell ourselves to anyone who comes from a more developed country in the hopes of securing a man who would take us away from the cold Siberian nightmare of our lives. I don’t have a problem with being called hot, it’s the second part of that stereotype that bothers me.

The only country ever to have rejected my visa application was the Philippines. I was going to school in Hong Kong and looking for a place to spend my senior year’s spring break. The Philippines seemed like an interesting option, so I bought a Lonely Planet and went to the embassy. I had a valid student visa in Hong Kong (which is pretty difficult to get in terms of background checks etc), many visas in Asia, plus plenty of other visas from less exotic locales (the visas for which are notoriously difficult to get, e.g, Germany and the US). The embassy’s website suggested I brought along all the usual paperwork — an application, airplane tickets, hotel reservations, and a bank statement, stating I had $200 in my account.

The lady I met at the embassy took one look at my passport. After that, she handed it back to me saying that I wouldn’t be issued a visa. She didn’t bother looking at my paperwork. After I demanded explanation, she said I didn’t have enough money (without even looking at my bank statement). I asked her how much I needed to have in my account. When she said it was $200, I told her I had more than that. Then she said $400. I had that. Then she said, oh wait, it’s $800 for you, without explaining how I was different form other applicants. Well, I had that.
She kept doubling he amount until I asked her if I was ever going to get that damn visa. She said no. So I want and bought a Lonely Planet on Cambodia instead. The vacation was awesome.

It was only later that I realized why I wasn’t issued a visa. It was because I was a Russian, over 18 and unmarried. I am sure that my being blond didn’t help, either. Apparently, many Russian prostitutes use Hong Kong and China as gateways to the Philippines. I can understand why the embassy was prejudiced against Russian females; the problem was that I had a valid and oh-so-hard to get student visa in Hong Kong, not to mention student and tourist visas to other countries Did they really think I had spent several years in comfortable and wealthy Hong Kong, going to one of their most prestigious schools so that I could trick them all and find a very desirable prostitution job in the poor and politically unstable Philippines?

When I was enjoying the aforementioned vacation in Cambodia, a (blonde) Russian-speaking friend of mine and I went to what that Lonely Planet termed “the coolest nightclub in Phnom Penh.” (If anyone is there and looking for a creepy place to meet affluent kids of the corrupted Cambodian politicians and the Western European students sex-touring around Southeast Asia, Heart of Darkness is the place to be). While hanging out with friends, two guys approached us and asked where we were from. They seemed sober (by Southeast Asian standards) and nice and we didn’t feel like leaving just yet, so we decided to be polite and answer. We said we were from Hong Kong. They obviously didn’t believe us. As we showed them our Hong Kong IDs and laughed about it, they asked us where we were actually from. Russia, we said (both of us are not, but it’s easier than explaining all the geopolitical details). The very moment we did, the guys started openly hitting on us in a very feisty manner. We had no choice but to leave.

I went to Thailand for a winter break once. In order to avoid the traditional elephant-riding-beach-strutting-cocktail-drinking
experience, I stayed with a Thai friend and her twin sister. It was great while we stayed in Bangkok and went to several places not frequented by tourists. I experienced the wonderful Thai hospitality, great food (very different from the Americanized kind, let me assure
you) and the joys of communicating with the locals. And then we went to Pattaya. It is a buzzing tourist city located in a lovely part of Thailand. The problem is that it is buzzing with Russians. There are numerous charter flights from Russia and other post-Soviet republics to this city. As I was walking down the street with my Thai friend, her sister and their Thai boyfriend, speaking English to them, I got to hear many catcalls in broken Russian addressed at me. At first, I was puzzled. How did they know I was Russian? I was not wearing a skimpy mini skirt, a bikini top or high heels (a very common uniform for many Russian women in Thailand; I am not being negative, anyone who has been there would confirm this). I was speaking (almost accent-free) English to my friends. So how in the world did they know ?

The answer was simple. There were so many blonde Russian women around that the local machos got accustomed to yelling suggestive phrases in Russian to any remotely blonde female passing by. Apparently, many were quite eager to be entertained by a hot Thai man. No wonder they got excited every time someone blonde passed by. (In defense of Russian women, Russian men acted even worse in Thailand. One got to see many (sadly, mostly Russian-speaking) old, fat, bald, wedding-band-wearing hairy men with two or three Thai girls clinging to them walking the streets of Pattaya).

While there are many Russian women who to go to Thailand to sell themselves, for many, like me, the only sex-related objects of interest are the phallic shrines. Those who fall in the latter category are often victimized by the adventurous local and foreign men. Many of my friends learned to say they are from somewhere else upon being inquired about their country of origin. Germany is always a good choice (many Germans are blond), although Finland (another country with a very blond
population) works best for me. Chances are, no one know enough about Finland or speaks Finnish to find the truth. (Although on a recent flight from Amsterdam to New York, an overly enthusiastic middle-aged man started blabbering away in Finnish; I had to admit I only have Finnish ancestors and don’t speak a language).

I am excited to go back to Hong Kong this summer. It is one of the few cities where there are almost no negative stereotypes about Russian women. But before I get there, I will be carefully hiding my passport and avoiding mention of my Russian nationality to anyone I meet along the way.

The Western Medical Paranoia, Herbal Teas, and Why Russians Fear the Cold

I could have become a competitive swimmer, but the Soviet Union stopped me.

I had nephritis (a kidney infection) when I was five and the doctors instructed my mom to keep me away from swimming pools. They said that any exposure to “cold” water (anything with a temperature below boiling, in their opinion) would cause another bout of nephritis. My parents strictly followed that rule, making sure I only got to swim in the warm sea in the zenith of the summer for no longer than ten minutes. It was only at thirteen that I rebelled and signed up for swimming lessons at a local pool. My coach said I had an excellent potential, but started practicing too late to achieve competitive results.

Many children who grew up in the post-Soviet Russia were banned from swimming by the doctors. According to the Soviet medical logic, a female who sits on something cold/swims in something “cold” is bound to end up with an infection of her reproductive system that will definitely leave her infertile. A male who does the same will also experience an infection that will leave him infertile. If a child has ever had a kidney issue, then a prolonged exposure to “cold” water will cause renal failure and many fatal health issues. Nowadays, there are reasonable doctors in Russia who believe in scientifically proven theories, not bizarre superstitions. But every time I am in Russia, I hear mothers telling off their daughters for sitting on the “cold and dangerous” ground. Given the cold Russian winters and the low fertility rates, those mothers might be onto something.

I am having a kidney infection right now (and I have not been swimming or sitting on cold surfaces recently) and went to see a doctor today. The hospital is in the US, so I had to tell my medical history to a doctor whom I had never seen before . I briefly mentioned my kidney infection and the superstitions linked to it and she flashed me an understanding smile. Her parents are European and she has had her share of medical superstitions as a child. She was told she would get arthritis if she sat on something cold or didn’t wear clothes warm enough. Like most children, both of us did not obey the rules and still appear to be in a fairly good health.

Apart from medical superstitions, all countries to which I have been enjoy self-help ways of curing diseases. Having a cold in Russia? Eat garlic and drink linden tea with honey. Sick in Germany? Inhale steam coming from a bowl of hot water with onions and potatoes in it. Russians in particular seem to favor herbal teas. There are teas galore in most pharmacies, believed to cure everything: from obesity to diabetes to impotency.

Just like Russians, other nations are keen on using “natural cures.” A doctor in Hong Kong prescribed me ginseng (boil a handful of ginseng roots, take three times a day with meals) for feeling tired. It ws extremely effective, although the taste was abominable. A friend of mine wasn’t so lucky. She went to a pharmacy in an attempt to get rid of something that was most likely an allergic reaction to pollen. She came back with a package of a “6-flowers-cure” – a mix of dried flowers. Since the tea — quite predictably — made her feel worse, she resorted to the original plan of taking over-the-counter antihistamines, which worked well. But then, I know someone who claims an exotic mixture of dried snakes, deer antlers and herbs makes a life-changing tea.

While some nations favor a more natural approach to treatment, some favor pharmacological industries. A widely spread stereotype claims that the North Americans consume more anti-depressants than the rest of the world (Prozac, anyone?). Interestingly enough, many mental disorders are considered “purely American” worldwide. You can rarely find a European talking about a bipolar syndrome or ADHD. While both disorders certainly get diagnosed and treated, it seems to happen less often than in the US. In fact, I might have been diagnosed with ADHD if I grew up in the US.

I was extremely active and loud as a child. A friend of my parents has a guest visiting from the US. She was a psychiatrist and, taking one look at me, announced I had ADHD. My parents simply ignored her diagnosis (that was soon after the USSR collapsed, and no Russian was going to take an advice from an American doctor)–besides, they did not know what ADHD was. I tried researching it in Russian recently, but it was futile. None of my Russian friends had heard about this disorder and they certainly don’t know what a Russian term for it.
Apart from being loud and active (which I still am), I never exhibited any other symptoms of ADHD. I wonder if I would have been treated from it had I grown up in the US? You know, just in case I had it.

The “Western medical paranoia”, as the doctors in Russia refer to it, proved to be very contagious. I was very overworked when I came home to Russia for the winter break once. I was in my senior year of high school in Hong Kong. School was exhausting, college applications were annoying and I never wanted to hear the word “SAT” again. The Russian weather was cold and gloomy and I missed the Hong Kong sun. I couldn’t sleep properly. I kept having nightmares about lipase and helicase (Biology was my least favorite subject at school). I guess all I needed was lots of rest, maybe some retail therapy and chamomile tea to calm my nerves. However, by that time I had spent enough time abroad to think I also needed an anti-anxiety medication (I was pretty proud of myself being oh-so-civilized and westernized). My mom thought the idea was hilarious, but let me find a psychiatrist (the only available medical specialist in Russia who deals with anxiety etc; there are psychologists, but all they can do is talk to you since they don’t have a medical education and can’t prescribe anything).

The doctor seemed surprised when I told her I came because I couldn’t sleep properly.

-Do you have hallucinations?
-No.
-Any suicide thoughts?
-No.
-Sleep-walking?
-No…

She glared at me. “So WHY are you here?”

I have been sticking to the chamomile tea ever since.